Tuesday, June 1, 2010

2010 NAUMD Awards--A Closeup!: Interviews with Made to Measure Magazine

2010 NAUMD AWARDS--A CLOSE-UP!

Las Vegas was the location for this year's Convention, where awards for the most outstanding uniform programs were presented in two categories: Safety apparel, and Images of the Year (IOY).  The first--uniforms for those who serve to protect our population; the second--best designs in uniforms that enhanced a product, place, and concept.

22 awards represented a sub-category, accenting unique appearance and functionality in the workplace.  Each contestant had multiple requirements--some similar, some different.    Competition was tough.   Interestingly, the traits or concepts that made one winner a success was what another winner pooh-poohed. 

"New technologies, fabric enhancements and innovation in design and composition are key to being named the best of the best!" exuded Richard Lerman, President and CEO of NAUMD.
*
AWARD:  University Police Department
WHO:  Red the Uniform Tailor, with Michael Buck
FOR: University of Delaware Police
FOCUS: Customization, keen eye to detail, fit, fabric, quality, attention to unique body shapes.
SPECS: 60 officers dressed the same, gold thread from shoulder emblems/hash marks/chevrons, the same color as inlaid cloth stripe on navy pant leg.  14 oz. poly-wool serge, matching Class "A" military navy dress blouses, wide shoulders, narrow waist.  Room for Sam Brown-styled gun belt worn over shoulder.  General Pershing styled navy hat.  Shirts, (long and short sleeved), a lighter weight, lighter blue--11 oz. or 8 oz.   Sewn-in creases, double elbows, reinforced pockets, hidden zipper front.
HOT POINTS: Same design used for years.  A re-vamp, and more attention to details and customer needs, made all the difference.
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AWARD: Police Department Under 50 Officers
WHO:  Red the Uniform Tailor, with Bruce Klein
FOR:  Old Saybrook Police Department , Connecticut
FOCUS:  New Sheriff with new contemporary design.
SPECS: P&F blue poly-wool with lighter blue, knit ties with square bottoms,  Trooper cowboy hats.  Gold trim.
HOT POINTS:  "Image is everything in this business.  How a department looks and presents itself is what makes the difference between an agency that can solve a situation with speech, vs. getting into a brawl.  If the uniform is so classy that no one wants to mess it up, then the instigators will be less willing to engage, and the officers will be less willing to fight," said Bruce Klein.
*

AWARD: Special Organization
WHO: Perfection Uniforms with Miranda Brock, and dealer Ronk's Uniform Center
FOR: West Virginia Sheriffs' Association
FOCUS: 65 counties wearing same uniforms; patrol cars painted to match fabric.  Grass roots with folks paying for uniforms, one department at a time.  Functionality, comfort, water repellency.  Teamwork with multiple agencies providing several different aspects of the uniform.
SPECS: 800 members from every department, with black for shirts and trouser stripe, grey for pants, to blend with rugged state terrain.  Better technology in manufacturing, stain resistant fabrics, gussets in crotches, expandable waistbands.
  HOT SPOTS:  Sentimentality of statewide public support for uniforms to boost officer morale.  "The recession has allowed so many people to have so many choices.  They could go anywhere, but they chose us," said Miranda Brock.  "The troopers chose uniforms that were non-invasive or frightening, yet reminded the public who was in charge."
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AWARD: County Sheriffs' Departments
WHO: Guidry's Uniforms, with Tom Meagher
FOR: Vermillion Parish Sheriff's Department
FOCUS:  Need for tight budget, morale boost, and practicality.  New sheriff recognized Louisiana floods of Katrina and Rita caused huge losses to deputies.  Ordered only from the best suppliers: Blauer, Fechheimer, Southeastern, Smith & Warren.  Customized stock garments.
SPECS: 450 sets made of polyester gabardine, American-made, non-fade, easy-care, less expensive, washable, and water resistant.  Royal pants with piggyback stripe in yellow-gold and silver, tan shirt with royal and yellow-gold, waterproof LAPD navy jacket with removable lining, Smokey Bear hat with royal trim: A totally new look in Louisiana.
HOT SPOTS:  Tremendous attention to customers' needs, both emotionally and practically.  "Service, trust, long-term relationships, and quality are the secrets to customers.  Our focus is on staying positive," said Tom, president of the family-owned business.
*
 AWARD:  County Sheriffs' Departments
WHO: Nye's Uniforms, with Bill Nye
FOR: Roscommon County Sheriff's Department
FOCUS:  Good-looking dress uniform, custom-measured,  every detail attended to.  All accompanying uniform accessories provided.
SPECS: 30 dress blouses, shirts, and pants in tan and brown , with color changes and reversals for various departments.  Some wore hats, some didn't.  The fabric was a poly-wool 16.5 oz. elastique.
HOT SPOTS: For 75 years, Nye's has been providing public safety apparel.  It uses Red the Uniform Tailor, whom Nye feels is the best anywhere, going from off-the-shelf to custom garments.  Garments paid for by the town, department by department.  Nye's has been a NAUMD winner for the last four years.
*

AWARD: State Agency
WHO:  Fechheimer, with Fred Heldman
FOR:  California Highway Patrol
FOCUS: Tightly specked, well fitted, high standards of discipline, inspections, and maintenance that projects authority.
SPECS:  6,800 uniforms in wools and wool blends, which are best for appearance, comfort, and durability.  Traditionally khaki colored with campaign hat and blue & gold trouser braid.  Dress uniform includes green jacket and royal blue tie.  Cold weather and utility uniforms are dark blue.
HOT SPOTS:   A Fechheimer customer for decades,  the California Highway Patrol sanctions several companies to produce its garments.  "There is no question," says Heldman, "that Fechheimer won the award due to experience and expertise in uniform manufacturing, and particularly high-end tailored garments."
*
AWARD: Special Agency
WHO: Galls-Aramark, with Molly Roberts
FOR: U.S. Mint
FOCUS:  Over 200 separate items needed to complete contract.   Appearance, key to the award.  Everything matched perfectly.  Honor guards, operations teams, transporters of coinage, security officers: Perfect. No counterfeit money, no counterfeit uniforms = Trust.
SPECS: Different for various locations, climates, duties.  Cool Max and Under Armor for comfort, a professional, clean look.  Navy blue, no striping.  Hats varied with function. Outerwear dependent on climate.  All badge and patch applications done at Galls'.  Goods is poly-wool, one weight for everything.  Durable, colorfast. 
HOT SPOTS: "The Mint prides itself on classy, traditional looks with new innovations as they are developed," reflected Molly.  "This is the second win for Galls and the Mint."
*
AWARD: Canadian Safety Department
WHO: R. Nicholl's Distributing, Inc., with Brian O'Connor
FOR: Royal Newfoundland Constabulary (Police Department)
FOCUS: Tremendous attention to detail and comfort, environment, and price.
SPECS: 280 members with 1,120 uniform sets, made by Perfection Uniforms.  Fabrics are recycled pop-bottles and polyester.  Navy with royal braid.  Cargo- styled pants, standard (forager) police-cap, and outer body armor.  Crotch gussets, expandable waistbands, wicking inside the garments, moisture repellency outside.  Shirts stretch under arms.  All uniforms the same, other than ranking.
HOT SPOTS:  "The uniform is basically the same as it was in the past, but new attention to detail is what convinced the Constabulary that we were right for them," says Brian.  "We were big enough to handle the order, we were new, they liked our product, and they liked Nicholl's."
*
AWARD: Healthcare
WHO: Cintas Corporation with Brian Garry, Jamie Overbey, Andi Vance
FOR: Florida Hospital Cardiovascular Institute
FOCUS: Apparel program for five different departments within the Florida Hospital Cardiovascular Institute.
SPECS: Uniforms trimmed with a custom heart-shaped design along with Florida Hospital logo to honor focus of the renowned organization.
HOT SPOTS: "This prestigious award truly reflects the integrity of our apparel program," said Danielle Johnson, Assistant Vice President of the Hospital.  "This facility is committed to quality care, so we wanted a uniform program that reflected our brand, while enhancing the job functions of each employee.  By working with key personnel throughout the process, Cintas helped us to develop a program that met everyone's needs."
*
AWARD: Hotel, Single Unit, United States
WHO: Cintas Corporation with Brian Garry, Jamie Overbey, Andi Vance
FOR: The Pierre Hotel
FOCUS: Luxury apparel program balancing the high-class nature of the age-old establishment, with the durability and comfort necessary for work. 
SPECS:  Traditional European styling that combined form and function enhancing guest experiences and celebrating hotel's $100 million renovation.
HOT SPOTS: "Cintas developed a luxury collection that echoes our brand and the environment in which our employees serve," said Heikio Kuenstle, General Manager of The Pierre Hotel.  "We wanted to set the standard for outstanding hospitality, and an award-winning uniform program further sets us apart from the competition."
*
 AWARD: Restaurants, Fast Food
WHO: Cintas Corporation with Brian Garry, Jamie Overbey, Andi Vance
FOR: The Panda Express
FOCUS: Importance of showcasing top-of-the-line apparel for back of house staff; the fast food restaurant operates with an exposed kitchen.
SPECS: Asian-inspired uniforms include black complementary chef and cook tunics, each with red accents and iconic Panda Express logo on right arm and back.  Chef version is differentiated by Chinese character trim.  Traditional skull cap was updated and re-thought to include mesh panels and adjustable straps.  Both uniforms with four-way reversible aprons.
HOT-SPOTS: "Panda's mission is to deliver exceptional Asian dining experiences to our guests during every visit.  When guests enter a Panda Express, we want to wow all five senses and showcase the culinary skills of our chefs preparing delicious Asian cuisine with fresh ingredients," said Nader Garschi, Executive Director of Concept Innovation at Panda Express. "Cintas was a great partner in executing that goal by creating a cultural-connector uniform that properly reflected the higher quality of the Panda Express brand."
*
AWARD: Cruise Lines
WHO: Cintas Corporation with Brian Garry, Jamie Overbey, Andi Vance
FOR: Royal Caribbean of the Seas
FOCUS: Providing vacationers opportunities based on their personal styles preferences, or moods. 
SPECS: Day, evening, and formal wear garments, enhancing new "Neighborhoods" concept:  Blue theme for day, black charcoal for night.  Formal wear difficult to maintain when dry-cleaning services not available; however custom poly-wool blends both easy to care for and durable.
HOT SPOTS:  "These awards are a testament to the way our designers and merchandising team are able to work with our customers and create functional fashions that match any aesthetic," said Andi Vance.
*
AWARD: Transportation
WHO: Apparel Solutions, with Ron Steel
FOR:  Hawaiian Airlines
FOCUS: 80th birthday for the constantly on-time airlines that completely revamped planes, ticket counters, and uniforms.   Easy online-ordering for each employee's job description and garment needs.  Meticulous attention to detail.  Design styles complement brand--Asian. 
SPECS: 2,300 uniforms.  For ticket counters and attendants: Colors muted with teals & azures in blouse and shirt prints, solid greys for elegant blazers and skirts.  HMS fabric, 8.5 oz., soft hand, easy care.  Baggage handlers in Day-Glo orange T-shirts.
HOT-SPOTS:  Buttonless blazers have mandarin collars; neither shirts, blouses, nor blazers have pockets; all buttons either monochromatic or non-existent.  Minimalist, simple.
*
AWARD: Retail Establishment
WHO: Lion Uniform Group, a G&K Services Company, with Jeanna Peifer
FOR: ampm Convenience Stores (Partnered with Arco and BP)
FOCUS: Revamped, transposed into workable uniforms that were comfortable, functional, easy to launder, reasonably priced.  Provided eye-catching memory for customer.
SPECS:  10,000 uniforms for long and short-sleeved shirts, male and female stylings, outerwear, and aprons.  Pants: employee-provided.  Astute design team created garments, and coordinating print; pattern done with sublimation color process, accenting stores' inventories: Reflects store motto, "Too much good stuff."
HOT SPOTS: Diversity as company morphs from one focus to another.  Identity with branding of corporation is key factor as teamwork plays huge part.
*
AWARD: Special Recognition
WHO: Lion Uniform Group, a G&K Services Company, with Jeanna Peifer
FOR: Class V
FOCUS: Coterie designer, Richard Tyler, produced high-end, tailored group of garments.  Elegant, classy, eye-catching in 138 countries.  Friendly, employee approachable, comfortable.
SPECS:  25-50 employees in each location.  14 different colors to accent white blouses and shirts, black blazers, skirts or slacks, and outerwear.  Linings, collars, scarves, accessories, jewelry.  Elegant with subtle but definite weave and presence of religious crosses.
HOT SPOTS: Customer at once drawn into theme, engaged by garments.
*
AWARD: Restaurants, Multi-Unit
WHO: Superior Uniform Group, with Janice Henry, Viv Smith, and Sandy Pegler
FOR: Ruby's Diner
FOCUS: Theme is paramount; the visual experience.  Complete dedication to customer preference.
SPECS: 1940's red and white: Gals in white half aprons, red and white striped outfits, waitress headbands; fellows in black pants, slim-Jim ties, white broadcloth shirts and soda-jerk hats.  Everything matches.
HOT-SPOTS: "This is a perfect example of a manufacturer giving the customer exactly what he wants.  It's about customer attention, and having a wonderful time.  How lucky we are to have such a great in-house design department!" expressed Janice.
*
AWARD: Hotels, Multi-Unit
WHO: Superior Uniform Group, with Janice Henry, Viv Smith, and Sandy Pegler
FOR: The Hilton Corporate
FOCUS: Global involvement with environment, ecosystems, and going "green."  Details, design, enhancing interior decor.
SPECS: Color palette: Chocolate, bark, charcoal with black.  Neutrals and earth tones, only.  Color-forecasting and design.  Pants, skirts, blazers, in stunning blues; silver& bronze--solids and a stripe--in blouses and shirts.  Eco-friendly fabrics: recycled polyester, standard polyester, Lycra.  Washable, stretch elbows, moisture wicking backs, soft hand, luxurious feel.  Two Superior style-groups involved: Select & Signature.
HOT SPOTS:  Younger employees want trendy designs with ecology and comfort in mind.  Cerebral experience, taking into account the edifice, purpose of the uniforms, and high fashion allowing uniforms to be worn on the street.
*
AWARD: Hotel, Single Unit, Canadian
WHO: Omega Uniform Systems (formerly Omega Frontline), with Margaret Ramsdale
FOR: The Pan Pacific Hotel Vancouver
FOCUS: Doormen's uniforms coordinated with glass and steel building, lake, mist, mountains, and grey environment.  Each employee with online web account for ordering, garments drop-shipping to front door. 
SPECS: Four to six doormen; 24 uniforms overall. Monochromatic look of blacks, charcoals, and greys.  Clean design, matching simplicity of structure.  Winter uniforms charcoal with light grey accents; summer, lighter weight in lighter grey with charcoal accents.  Pewter buttons, silver striping in matte finish.
HOT SPOTS: "The Pan Pacific uniforms are the result of taking traditional styling and interpreting it in a contemporary way," smiled Margaret.  "Everything is neutral, and nothing is shiny.  Low contrast, minimalist, low key.  The customer was thrilled with the aesthetics, and the doormen loved the functionality as well as the style." 

AWARD: Service Apparel
WHO: Brookhurst, Inc., with Elena Morgan
FOR: Mary Kay, Inc. and its Red Jacket Program
FOCUS:  High fashion, fitting all figures and age types.  Looking fabulous to fit the image of cosmetic giant.
SPECS: 13,000 people involved.  Multiple specs, depending on year of design, and level of achievement within Mary Kay.  Fabrics vary.  This year, mélange worsted wool fabric with silk piping, in black.  Skirts available in two styles, five lengths.  Jackets available in three styles, three lengths.  Additional accessories, prints, sweaters, and tops available.
HOT-SPOTS:  Durable,  comfortable, able to be worn year-round throughout the world.  Integrity of garment and good looks for the lifetime of the program, is a must.
*
AWARD: Casino
WHO: Unisync Group, LTD, with Ryan Beliveau
FOR: Niagara Fallsview Casino Resort
FOCUS: Beautiful look and fit, comfort, type of garment, rush order, custom measuring.
SPECS: 150 uniforms, black cocktail.  Durable, body-hugging, polyester/spandex-jersey blend, machine washable.
HOT SPOTS:  "At Unisync, we have some of the best people in the industry who can bring an image to reality, " said Ryan Beliveau."  "In addition to developing and manufacturing these highly customized garments and uniforms, we have a long history with high-end garments.  Total Program Management differentiates us from other companies.  Our 100,000 sq. feet distribution center says it all."
*
AWARD: Arena or Sports Facility
WHO: Walt Disney World, with Jodie White and Pam Flint
FOR: ESPN (Entertainment Sports Programming Network) Wide World of Sports
FOCUS: Created a costume that reflects branding of new partnership.  Representing all sports.  A "today" look that cast members feel good about when wearing garments.  Comfortable, easily sized.
SPECS: 700 cast members; 8,500 costumes.  85% wear ESPN red polos with black pants or shorts, red fleece jackets or windbreakers; 15% in same outfit with light grey, instead.  Baseball caps.  Champion stretch athletic fabrics, wicking for moisture, safety reflective tape, logos everywhere .  
HOT SPOTS: Cast having a very good time and feeling good about themselves.
* 
AWARD: Restaurant, Fine Dining
WHO: Walt Disney World, with Jodie White and Pam Flint
FOR: Sanaa, South African motif set in Animal Kingdom Resort Lodge
FOCUS: Authenticity of design, decor, environmental sensitivity, cultural awareness.  Functionality, surprising guests, keeping casts happy.  Full size-range kept in stock.
SPECS: Tremendous research of fabrics and styles. 40 greeters: Men in shirts (dashikis) and slacks, with small pillbox hats (kufis); women in tightly flared-out skirts and matching tops.  250 wait staff: Slacks with colorful shirts and vests.  Coordinated two groups of costumes.  Spice, electric blue, rust, brown, beige, or gold, orange, yellow, and red.   Poly-cotton dyed and printed to look like thick twine/kuba cloth.

HOT SPOTS: "We are so proud of what we produce here, and it's nice to have a chance to brag about our product," laughed Jodi White.  "We are the industry leaders in the type of work we do, and it's nice to be recognized for it."

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Accommodations: UniformMarketNews.com

Originally, uniforms were meant to be worn by a single class of people:  Healthy, youthful-to-middle-aged men.  They were homogeneous, built pretty much the same, and lived about 46 years.    

Depending on the service required, a uniform was designed for a particular duty and rank.  A sailor wore a different outfit than an infantry man; a seaman wore a different outfit than the captain.  Basically however, things were pretty much the same.  The old joke is that uniforms used to be made in two sizes: Too big and too small.  There were stock sizes, little custom tailoring or adjustability, and no stretch fabrics as everything was made from natural fibers, and standard designs.

The word uniform meant "one shape," as it does today.  Uniform apparel was about identity of task and duty.  It also served as a protection.  Nothing more.  It was not a fashion statement; nor was it meant for comfort.  It was utilitarian, and it was worn with great pride.  It was one of the aspects of the profession that a man valued most--the apparel that went with the job.

It didn't matter whether a uniform was meant for land or sea, town or country.  Many of the uniforms were made by kinfolk, the local seamstresses, tailors, undertakers, or the leather tanner.  For the military, there were groups of people who labored for this purpose. 

It wasn't until later that women had uniforms, and they were different.  First of all, women were built differently; also, they did different things.  Usually classified as domestics, working women generally wore uniforms to indicate a kitchen, hospital, restaurant, or chores done in the inside of a home. 

Because women didn't go off to war, didn't march in parades or drive plows on a regular basis, their uniforms were primarily self-made to suit their individual needs; either that, or there would be a local seamstress that would fashion an upstairs maid's outfit, or cook's apron.

The twentieth century brought more and more women into the forefront.  Accommodations and compromises had to be made.  Wars, transportation and communication brought countries, societies, cultures and classes, closer and closer together.  Uniforms changed. 

Yesterday's cook's aprons are today's unisex chefs' coats.  They even come in pink, with button-reversal for girls.  What a woman wore to serve is no longer the dress with an apron and little cap, but a golf shirt and slacks.  Today, those who work inside the home are in T-shirts or cobbler aprons; the black dress with lace collar and cuffs is no more.  

The biggest change is that women work right beside the men--in the military, in agriculture, within industry, in hospitality, or corporate.  You name it, and women are there.  They are estheticians, welders, and everything in between.  Not infrequently, they are pregnant and that necessitates maternity uniforms.

Women  require similar designs, fabrics, attractiveness, and the same protection as men.  How much femininity is added and how much remains masculine.  How close do women's price points compare with men's?  If men's  industrial pants sell five or six times more pairs than women's, does the price point remain the same for the lower volume of women's pants?  Does it go up?  They are not any more difficult to make, but what about cost, per size and per pattern?  Is this discrimination even if styles for them sell one-fifth the quantity?

If it weren't enough to have women outfitted, the next accommodation was the larger and taller sizes.  Better nutrition, a more affluent economy, improved technology, all seem pointed to bigger bodies.  The first step was oversize for men--fuller sizes.  The 2x, and gradual increase to 5 or 6x, and more...  When it became clear that men grew up as well as out, long body garments and arm lengths evolved: Plus two inches, plus four inches plus six inches...  No more high-water- pants, or skimpy sleeves.  Just big and tall.

Women?   There are women's  plus sizes, and of course petites on the other end of the spectrum.  Societies all over the world have become so diverse, that every uniform has to be made for him and her, for tall and short, for fat and thin, and unisex if possible. 

Some uniform manufacturers choose to add multiple stylings and sizes in order to accommodate this huge variety of demographic diversification.   Some have slashed their lines tremendously, salvaging only their most popular colors and best-selling styles.  Then, they offer multiple choices but within fewer items, overall.  Some have decided not to buy into diversification and just continue doing what they do best with the size patterns they have, in styles that work.

  Catalogues have become thinner as manufacturers draw their lines in the sand, defining what their specialties are; others have sprung up to fill the gaps where some fall short.  When one contemplates all that the history of uniforms tells us, how we as a species are evolving, it's amazing!  The paradox is that the more we realize how different we are, the more accommodations we make remain the same. 


Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Too Many Choices?: UniformMarketNews.Com

Why is it that uniform sellers today offer so many items in their catalogues or stores?  Is it to corner the market, or is it just to dazzle and overwhelm?   Do we really need all of this?

It is a known fact that the more choices a person has, the more interested and fascinated one becomes; at the same time, the fewer choices one has, the more likely one is to buy.  What is a seller to do?  Certainly, there are times when a huge variety plays an important part in selection.  However, there are other occasions when less is more--the narrowed selection becomes much easier for a person to handle.  Thus, rather than spending large amounts of energy trying to make choices, one's energy can be better spent making the actual purchase.  

The United States is known to be the world's greatest marketplace for choice.  The good news is that almost anything can be found here; the not so good news is that the multitude of choices makes getting through the morass of pickings quite challenging, and this confusion can eliminate the finality of decision.

Let's take the medical apparel business as an example.   It used to be that hospital personnel wore white, and in surgery it was light blue or a sea green.  These uniforms were symbols of medical professionalism, cleanliness, identity, and a kind of sanctity.  Color and style defined job description, and what to wear was a simple choice.  Then, it was easy.  Now, it becomes more of a fashion show. 

For a business to sell medical uniforms today,  there has to be an enormous investment in inventory:  Labcoats come in white or light blue--long, medium, or short in style; shorter counter/pharmacy coats are in multiple colors; women's, men's, or unisex; belted or not, side vents or closed, knit cuffs or plain, OSHA requirements or standard; rip-stop fabric, polyester, poly-cotton , or 100% cotton; with snaps, zippers, or buttons.

Scrubs come in women's, men's, and unisex, too, with sizes ranging from alpha to numeric.  If one gets past that, then there are sets or separates.  In addition to the fabric offerings mentioned above, these are also made in microfiber.
 
Scrub designs are made in snuggly jackets, short sleeved pullovers for summer, or long sleeved for those who get chilled. There are vests, skirts, the popular pants, and of course, the ubiquitous scrub top.  The top can be in a "v" or jewel neck, has a mandarin or straight bodice, ties or none at all, is empire or plain at the waist. 

There are prints and solids--a myriad of both: Darks, lights, peacefuls and brights.  Some have bias to contrast and accent; some are monochromatic.  Some have pockets, others are without.  The entire pocket concept in a scrub top is worthy of several hours' study: Upper pockets, lower pockets, slit pockets, patch pockets, thermometer pockets, stethoscope pockets and, of course the pockets can range from four to none.

The pants are drawstring, drawstring with elastic, or elastic only.  There are shorter ones and longer ones, flared bell bottoms and straight stovepipes.  There are one or two pockets in the back or not, pockets in the front or not, and cargo pockets on the thighs--or not.  Some have additional multiple pockets on each thigh, and there is a special cell phone pocket that is in high demand, too. 

These uniforms are terrific items for any medical care professional.  They are comfortable, easy to launder, and serve their purpose.  But is it all necessary for garments that are worn at most for a single day's work, and then thrown into a sanitizing laundry--usually with blobs of fluids that are spattered here and there?

   There are catalogues by the dozens and multiple styles.  There are manufacturers galore, and every one has its own set of designs, fabrics, colors, or prints. 

So what is a uniform seller to do?  Does he take the practical approach, pick a few styles of each in a basic colors and hope for the best?  Does he open a big-box store of medical apparel and stock racks and racks of various vendors and offerings?   What is the manufacturer to do in an attempt to satisfy each and every customer, when he makes all this merchandise in the first place?

One customer with whom we spoke, is in charge of a school for medical students.  She recently abandoned the big-box stores in favor of a small, mom-and-pop.  She said quite plainly that that she wanted her students to get a single color, a single style in a particular fabric, with the understanding that medicine was not about fashion, but science.  On the other hand, another customer felt just as strongly that if professionals had multiple choices and could feel good about themselves in their work apparel, then it would make all the difference in their job satisfaction.  So I leave it to you: Choose from a lot or choose from a few; there is room for both.  It's your choice...     

Monday, April 5, 2010

Measure Twice, Cut Once: UniformMarketNews.com

It used to be that no matter what we did, we had to do it better:  "Good, better, best; never let it rest--until your good is better, and your better best."  A manufacturer would smile contentedly as he finished an order and quip, "Perfect is good enough."  But, today, the stressed salesman snaps at his impatient customers, "We can give you cheap, quick, or good: Pick two.  You can't have all three!"  In today's world, guess which two most people pick.

Over the last few weeks, I have spoken with several companies:  One was doing ceremonial coats for a specialty group.  Five men with five unique measurements all fitting into size 5xl, one way or another.  Each was more specially shaped than the one before.  Directions were impeccable, fabric was magnificent, embroidery was superb, the pattern perfect. Cutters and sewing operators with years of experience were lined up to present these gentlemen with five perfect coats.  It was to be a collective work of uniform magnificence.  What happened?  Despite explicit instructions, their wives took the measurements, instead of the fellows going to skilled tailors.  Guess what? 

One guy had sleeves that came up to his elbows, because the back was too narrow by five inches.  One forgot that the abdomen doesn't disappear when the coat goes on, and his 59 inch stomach acted as a "front porch," left hanging between  his two 64 inch "side verandas."  Another gentleman's spouse didn't know where her husband's waist was, buried somewhere in his rotund figure; thus, the top of the coat looked like it had an empire waist, also about three inches too short at the hem.  The best is that the guys got the coats, didn't try them on, had them ornately embroidered for an unmentionable amount of money, and only afterward realized that the coats had to be trashed!

Then, there was the police department.  The secretary took down the specifics on this one, claiming she was an alteration lady on the side.  From our military uniform source, I surmise that her skills were very "on the side."  The coats were standard Marine Corps design, braided by hand with edge cord, all around.  In 100% wool elastique, they cost a pretty penny, as first class military coats do.  It turned out the gal had measured one fellow's coat three inches too long, and the entire coat had to be ripped out, cut down, re-lined, re-braided.  The pants for a different officer were criticized as being made far too small for his large, muscular thighs.  The salesman was told that his customer couldn't get the pants on.  When the officer was re-measured for new pants, his thighs were actually an inch narrower than originally thought; it was his seat that was two inches too small.  On it went...

A restaurateur complained that his 3xl gal was wearing a jumper and pinafore apron that were too short regarding the waist length, and asked the manufacturer if it would mind re-designing the pattern  to accommodate this woman's rather large bosom.  The manufacturer explained that an entirely new pattern had to be drafted, graded, etc., and that a custom pattern  for one uniquely built size 3xl would cost a fortune, suggesting an alteration lady, instead.  But no mind.  The gal was taken with a seizure of modesty, refused to get measured and as a result, the owner of the eatery sent the lady's old uniform to the manufacturer, with instructions to make her new uniforms just the same as the old but with a longer bodice.  How much longer, he couldn't say.  No one knows to this day.

Finally, there is the theatrical producer who needed Johnny-on-the-spot costumes for his dancers: Two weeks' notice, four different fabrications, three different garments per uniform to outfit the entire cast.  All were ritz and glitz, goods that were more slippery and clingy than skin on a snake, and so thin the garments couldn't be made up without fusing, lining, and heaven knows what.  Okay.  For skilled manufacturers of theme park attire, no worries, right?   But oop, when the stage manager gave the sewing operators their instructions, he forgot to reveal that there were two different styles of jackets rather than one; the wrong color fabric had been listed on the purchase order for one entire group of dancers (there were three groups); the fabric (which was really meant for flimsy bowties,  not coats and pants ) was 20 inches too narrow; he had forgotten to order one fabric, while short on the other three; and the fellow didn't include the custom-designed patterns.  Oh, yes, pant hem lengths were left out of the measurements, too.

So there you are.  Why accuracy matters.  Which reminds me, a well-known tailor recently came across a new tape measure that started at three inches, rather than at zero.  Have you ever taken a measurement that was three inches larger than the person's actual size?  Try it in your own business, sometime.  But    remember to measure twice, and cut only once. 



Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Ralph's: UniformMarketNews.Com

You can drive by the two single-story 1950's buildings and never know they are there: Non-descript blonde brick office types separated by a driveway, each small enough to take in both at a single glance.  A curved awning over one of the entrances, with a threaded needle laminated in place, separates the importance of the one building from the other.  To the right is sales and parts; to the left is the machine shop and service.  The driveway allows for deliveries. 

Inside, it is an entirely different story.  The machine shop is full of technical wheels and honing tools that mold and manufacture various precision parts for this and that.  Its gloomy concrete interior has men in goggles bent over their work.  Except for bald florescent lights and flying sparks--everything is grey.  Beyond the machines is service for the sewing department.  There are older men and younger, who are cleaning, re-wiring, adding new parts to damaged irons, pressing equipment, sewing machines, cutting knives, or whatever.

Across the way is the front office: People drive in from all over, to consult, order, gossip, schmooze and network, just like at the general store in a small town.  Behind the office is the parts department--grey metal shelving with bin after bin of needles, folders, sizes of machine foots, bobbins, scissors, multiple types of colored  thread, all kinds of grease, oil, and even cans of air.  You name it, and Ralph's has it; if it doesn't have it, it will be ordered.  Customers saunter in and lean on the antiquated glass counter tops that separate them from the clerks, while they check over the bulletin board where folks either advertise themselves or pick up an advertisement from others for jobs, skills, and equipment.  

Beyond the parts department is the machinery that is for sale--both new and re-furbished.  The wooden floors creak, all of it is old, cramped, and ever so homey.  It's a place where blue collar folks congregate to talk about their trades and common interests:  They're all of a same mind, knowledgeable, and proud.

Ralph Badillo, now in his late 70's, still comes in every day.  Irma, his wife, does the books; daughter Peggy runs the shipping and special orders; son Joe is in parts; and younger son Paul invents equipment and has obtained 17 different patents for his inventions that keep the machine shop busy. 

Besides the family, there are the machinists, of course, and then, there is Jack--Mr. Customer Service.  Jack, who sports a handlebar moustache that he waxes once a day, and a gold watch fob with a knife, scissors, and screw driver for adjusting machinery, has degrees in industrial and mechanical engineering with minors in design,  physics, and management.  Before he came to work at Ralph's in 1991,  he spent 20 years traveling around the world setting up different shops and factories, and that is his strength--that, and his ability to win the trust of every customer he meets. 

He not only understands equipment, but he knows where it goes and how to use it; he can set up an entire shop, figuring how many machines to use, which one a customer needs to buy, and how many employees are needed to run the place.  He has become the showman of the company-- he is Mr. Personality, and he definitely knows his stuff.  Jack said it best when he remarked, "I love working at Ralph's because it's a small family business without the corporate nonsense.  If I go on a sales call, I never have to worry.  Everybody here supports each other.  What makes us special to our customers is our advice and our knowledge."

In 1927, Singer Sewing Company had its machine shop for retail and wholesale trade located in Denver, Colorado, a centralized hub for the Rocky Mountain region of the United States.  It did well in the largely open and non-competitive West, but as the years wore on and more shops opened up, Singer's management realized that it needed an expert mechanic who understood machines in more than a basic way; there were too many different kinds of machinery, too many different kinds of things being made. 

Ralph Badillo, already employed by Singer in New York, took the job, and he brought his young family with him, remaining with the firm for several more years.  It was Ralph who, while still with Singer, made all the contacts with the customers, did all the repairs, and knew all the machinery.  He left Singer in 1975, taking his large clientele with him.  He started Ralph's Power Industrial Sewing Machine Company, and went into direct competition with Singer (which was exclusive and would not allow itself to be sold with other sewing machine brands at that time).  Ralph took on machines made by Juki, Brother, Pfaff, and Adler--all fine competitors to Singer.  The Singer shop, realizing it was not able to compete, ultimately gave him the right to sell the Singer machines, too, under the name of Power Sewing of Denver.  It remains that way, today:  Singer is sold under its own company name, but it's all at Ralph's.

Unimaginably enterprising, Ralph sold equipment for every aspect of sewing:  Dressmaking, uniforms, saddlery, interior design, draperies,  upholstery, mattresses, police and fire garments.  There were no limits to what he could do.  He offered on-the-job service with his trucks and mechanics, he offered parts and repairs.  He was unique in his concept of customer service, and he worked the entire western portion of the country.  He also picked up the prisons in multiple states when they began to contract sewing work; wherever there was a machine to be purchased, or one to be repaired, Ralph's was there.

Ralph captured the entire market from California to east of the Mississippi, where he still controls the area.  As time went on, other shops like his either went out of business, or became so specialized that they extinguished themselves.  Ralph's, by diversifying, has remained steady and continues to grow. 

The machine shop was a result of son Paul's genius.  He is basically an inventor with a keen mind and the ability to come up with a solution for just about anything.  Patent after patent, Paul has created attachments for various machines that manufacture such things as soft eyelets for hats, fabric grommets without metal for police and fire shirts, non-metal mattress handles and borders, airbags, automobile covers, collars for dogs and belts for people.   Whatever a company needs, Paul has come up with, and Ralph's machinists create it along with the patent.  "In-house product development is the secret to our success," says Ralph.  "Our solutions require deep technological thought."
 
    Ultimately, Ralph's  has become a contractor and converter of parts for such plants as General Motors, General Electric, Ball Aerospace, Hartz Mountain Pet Supplies,  O'Cedar mops,  the Fuller Brush Company, and Samsonite Luggage.  The best invention is a forever sharp glass blade, co-manufactured with Coors Ceramics, to be used for cutting through thick fabrics such as jeans and mattresses.  What was originally meant for making sewing machine parts, additionally now sells tiny precision items made specifically for satellites, automobiles, university research, and more.

 All of this goes on in the little building across the driveway.  It has also allowed the company to survive during economic downfall and recession.  Interestingly, the apparel business, including uniforms, has become a relatively small part of Ralph's, now.  Says Jack, "Apparel in America basically went out during the '70's and early '80's." 

Today, Ralph's ships all over the world.  It does work in Africa, Canada, Honduras, Argentina, Brazil, England, France, and Germany.   Ralph's has become an institution in American machinery and sewing needs, and sees only a bright future ahead as it continues to diversify and reach out to new customers and trends.