The Old Tailor: Made to Measure Magazine

(This article was originally written in the late '80's.)

When I was a child, I used to see him there, sitting in a non-descript corner, hunched over his machine. Acknowledging my father's watchful presence more than my brown-eyed curiosity, he would look up and nod as I would observe him cut the thread between his teeth.

Worn Singers--maybe six of them--and an old Pfaff, were stuffed into that back room like desks in a schoolhouse.  Instead of books, cones of sewing thread, boxes of buttons, rolls of braid, filled the shelves. And, like mollified students, they all sat there, the numbers of Eastern Europe engraved into their faces, their clothing belonging to a different time.

Trousers and vests hung on skinny men like jackets tossed on barbed wire fence posts.  Faded flowered silks (for there were no polyesters in those years) threatened to cover trundling women as though they were skins on bulging sausages.  They were old then--grey, stoop-shouldered, an dreamless--sewn into the linings of their world.   The years eventually took most of them, but the old tailor remained loyal.

I suppose he was only twenty, in those groping times when the world was righting itself from the War.  I think it must have been that I was so young, that he appeared so old. When he died, he was sixty-six; my memories are from many years ago.

His first name had been anglicized and he had a last name infiltrated with Polish phoneticisms--an infinite number of  "z's."  Medium build, medium height, his pride kept his spine as straight as a measuring stick all his life. But from the close work of the stitching, a roundness had grown into his shoulders, softening that very formal European discipline into an almost friendly stoop.

His eyes were quick to note a mistake, observant to follow a line.  I cannot recall their color, for there was no contrast to the shading of his face. Everything was grey.  The hair, straight and combed to one side, covered his baldness.  Occasionally, when he lost himself in his art, a strand or two would slip down over his brows, creating a casualness that might have made him a part of this world.  He had a sharp Aryan nose, and a large brown mole on his cheek that rose up in a rounded dome like a used pencil eraser. He always wore a too-wide tie and a too-tight coat; he always wore a hat--straw in the summer, felt in the winter.

He worked for my father for over forty years.  He did just about everything, because he was trained in the days when "everything" was what one did; when loyalty to the superior mattered; when quality was more than a quick stitch of a union label.  He had apprenticed as a boy, I imagine, in pre-War Poland.  Afterward, he came here, bringing with him a needle and thread, a pair of shears, and his accent. Nothing more.

In the early years, he did the master tailoring.  Hitch it up here; let it out there.  Dart. Pleat. No gusset. Watch the inseam.  This one is a portly--don't confuse him with a stout.  Sleeve lengths to match.  Careful when you cut, now--those lapels are getting narrower.  Single-breasted for him; double-breasted takes too much cloth and he's too broad across the chest.  Not too much padding in the shoulder.  Slimmer leg, please...

Eventually, the tailoring business became more of an eccentricity than a practicality.  As the shop became a factory, and the company grew to a corporation, the old tailor, in order to continue to survive, should have changed, also.  But he never grew or learned any more than his youth had taught him.  His pessimism over a lost world invaded his dulled being.  Now, they used the word "manufacturer" instead of "tailor."  It was longer, maybe. Fancier.  But to him, its real meaning was death.

He tried to leave once, when industrial replaced hand, when one suit became one hundred, when the single name "piecework" replaced the completeness of the whole garment.  He had in mind to buy his own shop--a small corner, downtown.  At last, out from under my father's shadow, he would be his own man.  Butler becoming boss.  His shop would be in the tradition of his world--suiting fabrics, shirt weights.  A small press in back with a good steam iron ought to do it.  Of course, a really good machine or two.  Maybe, if it went well, a helper.  But most of all, he, the old tailor, would celebrate his trade and his skill.  Tape measure around the neck--like a priest before the altar--he would dress the mannequin to approximate size. Clip the threads.  Check the button holes.  Brush the shoulders.  Amen.

He had purchased the shop with his savings.  Received my father's best wishes.  Was ready to own the life for which he had been trained.  But he had a wife--and at the proper moment, her greed coerced her into gambling.

If, for a few months, there actually had been a color to the old tailor's eyes, it was never seen again.  Only grimness and waiting and manufacturing remained.

He needed a job and my father needed a good man to run the shop.  "Shop" didn't mean the whole building, but those rooms confined to the cutting, sewing, and pressing of the garments.  My father never did find that "good man."  But the old tailor was there.  And, he did his best, I suppose.  Mostly pacing between this girl and that, watching how they sewed, wondering what to complain about next.

The flowered dresses were replaced with low-cut blouses and too-tight pants.  The seven machines reproduced themselves into twenty and thirty. The presses became the pressing room.  Electric cutting knives whirred, two and three at a time.  The women had become girls, and the Europeans had been replaced with Spanish, Indian, and Oriental blood.

It wasn't pride anymore.  It was survival and endurance.  Kibbitz with the girls.  Punch in--punch out.  A day's work. Most of all, disdain for modernity. Disgust with the distance between a man and his work; a love affair the old tailor testily missed.  It didn't matter how good the garment was.  To him, it wasn't right--it wasn't done with tenderness, or respect for the beauty of the fit.  The caring, the sighing, the becoming-at-one-with, were not there, any more.

The tailor made a poor foreman.  My father knew it.  The tailor, I imagine, knew it, but didn't care.  I believe for him, it was a simple transfer of professions: From creating, to observing others create.  The world had passed him by.

Almost too late, my father grew tired of the bigness of his work.  He sold the factory, and returned to the smaller shop.  A staff of nothing: Except that he still needed the old tailor.  Only a few days a week. Alterations. Hand stitching. A custom measurement now and then.  It was here that I saw the old gentleman gradually fail, fall apart, and finally die.

The manufacturing of suits had become the making of uniforms--for hotels, restaurants, and specialty groups. He would still take the bus each day to and from his torture, where he would be surrounded by brightly colored cocktail dresses and Mexican waitress skirts, hot-pants, and chambermaid garb.  Once again, rounded over his machine that was lit cautiously with a small refrigerator bulb, he would sit and baste. Snapping the thread between his teeth as he used to do, forty years ago.  He knew the feel of a good wool gab.  He could line up the buttons on a jacket by sight.  He ripped and re-sewed with the steadiness of the years.

I always thought he liked the ripping best, somehow.  When it wasn't his own work, it was a delight to correct.  To remind the others of what real tailoring and genuine workmanship were about.

The months passed. He muttered a lot.  At first to himself.  Then to the cloth.  Finally, to the audience of the presses.

His end was those hot steaming machines.  Mentally, he had grown quite slow, old memories stitching over the cloth of reality.  My father would have retired him, but the tailor's wife still gambled away their money. There was no other means for him to survive, but to work.  All that was available now that his skills were fading, were the presses.

He was as good at them as any other aspect of the trade. He was content to come in, fold his coat carefully on the chair, and place his hat neatly on their top.  He would smoke a cigarette and go to the back, where amidst conversations with himself, he would smooth a pant or two, using all his strength to pull down those big mangles and buck presses.

He worked until his last day.  Dignified, formal, polite.  As gracious to the imagined voices he heard as to the workers behind the cutting tables.  As critical of the twentieth century, as anyone I've known.  Vacant and shyly droll, always the Old World, in a tattered and worn sort of way.  His clothes never changed from those early, ill-fitted years, despite the thousands of hours he spent caressing the seams of others.

I felt sad when he died, not so much for him as for me.  Clearly, he was just too tired.  I wondered if, had I tried, I could have known him better.  I wondered if, had I succeeded, there would have been any greater depth to him than what I had observed.  The old tailor, like a worn suit of clothes, may well have been a disguise for someone very different underneath.

Am I Retiring, Transitioning, or Re-Inventing?

We've been in business for 77 years.  I sold my building: Offices, showroom with fitting area, the actual factory.  Not a huge place as manufacturing plants go, but figure a big fish in a little pond.  Since 1936, ain't bad.

The garment industry in the United States is all but dead; the custom garment industry is dead.  I have business, I have customers.  But not enough to earn a living.  Labor today is all off-shore for any kind of tailoring expertise and decent pricing; what our custom shop has always been about. As one of the last shops in our line of manufacturing--if not the last--it was time to bail.

I had to move.  I got rid of the overhead (Thank God), and I got rid of all those things I am responsible for but can't control; eg: The Facility, the Equipment, and the Help.  You don't want to own a factory in this day and age, if you can help it.  I'm telling you.  At least 50% of my professional life has been about apologising for this mistake, or that mal-function.  The only honors I got out of the deal were the joys of saying, "I'm sorry," and giving courtesy discounts. Mazel Tov.

But OK.  So, now, I'm moved.  Where?  I don't want to go through the entire process with you, but trust me; it wasn't a charmer.   The cost of renting a new space, buying a new space, adding a new space onto my home, squeezing everything I needed into my house as is; were all possibilities.

I have a friend who thinks I ought to have had a Plan.  Are you kidding? What plan?  I needed to get out of the building in order to save the overall   company--you know, the proverbial handwriting on the wall:  I needed to stop the financial hemorrhaging, and the mistakes.  This wasn't something that was self-contained and dependent on my decisions, alone; rather it demanded that all the outsiders' chips fell in their own proper order.

One day, a guy makes an offer on the building.  OK.  I figure it all out.  Get it all ready.  Then the sale falls through.  Plan?  So I continue on, in my original operational mode.  Six months later, another offer.  OK. This time, the thing goes through but with closing in four weeks.  An entire--if small--77 year old manufacturing operation--close down, sort, and pack up in 20 days; all the while with orders in work.  

In the meantime, the folks I was going to take with me to a new, littler shop, decided to retire, altogether. Surprise...  

So that's the end of the factory.  In all fairness, one former worker is 80, another is 73; we're not talking Spring Chickens, here.  But between the first and second purported sales of the building, everything changed, including any kind of income projection.  Thus, rentals/purchases of smaller manufacturing facilities, were out the window.  How now, Brown Cow?

The bids to add on a home office came in at $35,000.  For 10'x10'.  No kidding. Small volume pricing. Thus, I rented: An inside storage facility unit. Same size as the home add-on, but for $181/month including insurance.  At this rate, I can keep my new "satellite office" for almost 17 years, before I come close to the $35,000 addition.  

You would love the satellite office.  It's two blocks away, so Sydney--my dog--and I can walk to work.  It's done in used brick with Columbia blue and white trim, and looks like traditional model homes.  (The complex cries out for red geraniums).  The place has all the comforts of home except electricity (other than the bare bulb overhead); and the bathroom that is three buildings away.

It's almost perfect.  I have Kleenex, a chair, a shipping table with a scale, my boxes/tape/wrapping tissue/labels, a broom and dustpan along with a wastebasket, step-stool, 15 file cabinets of payables and receivables, and over 200 aprons that I couldn't bear to part with (let me know if you're interested in purchasing...)   It's the best.  A mezuzah is on the doorpost, along with a Jewish calendar for the year, 5774. The UPS office is down the street; I pack up the uniforms in this petite shipping department, and schlep box after box rather than paying extra for the driver in the big brown truck, to pick up.

My family-room at home in the basement, along with my upstairs study, comprise the rest of my corporate offices. Downstairs are the "accounting and business offices."  Everything I need to run the show, as long as I don't have to cut cloth in my own shop.  I can cut cloth with other folks; I can press; I can sew--all outside. I can screen-print and embroider.  Same thing. But I can't cut in-house.  So far. That's my limit.  I have others who can do the manufacturing in their own shops (aka contractors and sub-contractors), or I can sell ready-to-wear (uniforms from other manufacturers that are made off-shore and merely pulled from shelves, and shipped.)

Upstairs is the "creative/executive" office with all the business machines.  Yes.  I'm writing to you from this office, right now.

I'm continually getting settled, as the days go by.  Still working like mad to squeeze it all in.  Adding new activities, as my hours and time are now my own. No one I have to apologise for or yell at.  No machines to fail or be damaged by well-intentioned "experts."  I'm working every day and so far, longer than I ought. Just to get caught up and get on some kind of schedule. (Sometimes, a customer may get a call from me as late as 1:00 a.m....)

Now, you tell me.  People say, "Ohhhhh, I'm so happy you retired!"   Am I retired?  I have 3 office spaces, separate phone/fax/email /business cards, and UPS bills.  "Well, but no, you're at home, now, so that's not really working." Maybe if I drove around the block every morning before I sat down at my desk so that I could "arrive" at my offices by 8:00, that would help.  

Others write books about "transitioning."  My own "transition" either must be because I've morphed from young to old, and/or because America has given up the ghost where blue-collar skills are concerned.  It's the same business, the same name, the same Stuff.  No in-house factory to be sure, but in every other way, it's the same.  We've always had cottage industry. Even this isn't new.

Tell me, what have I transitioned besides my moving from my factory to my home?  Still feels the same to me.  I answer the phone the same.  I dunno.  I guess the transition is in the loss of overhead and liabilities, and I don't have to apologise so much, any more.

Finally, and best, are those who insist I'm re-inventing myself.  Um, I lost 10 pounds.  Does that mean I'm re-invented?  Trust me: I'm still the same impossible person I have always been, which is why I'm not a team player and work for myself.  I'm in the same business, doing the same thing: Fashion.  Only, I'm more relaxed now because I can focus on selling the clothing, rather than putting out all the fires and rescuing the help.

Suiting Up For Santa Claus: UniformMarketNews.com

Every year, Santa puts down his pipe, fluffs up his whiskers, and makes sure he has his fabled list that he’s checked twice.  He puts on his Christmas best and gets ready to spread love, good cheer, and goodies to children all over the world. 

It seems that Santa Claus, or Saint Nicholas, evolved with various cultures over time:  The Greeks knew him as Poseidon, god of the sea; the Romans changed his name to Neptune.  Early European Christianity drew on these images of this powerful sea god, the benevolent Christ child, and the notion that children should be good Christians, and called him Hagios Nikolaos (Latin for Saint Nicholas).  There doesn’t seem to be proof that there was an actual person named Nicholas.

Saint Nicholas, protector of sailors and schoolchildren, gradually became a rescuer and benefactor who rewarded children everywhere so long as they were properly behaved, did their studies, and said their catechism. 

The name of Santa Claus came from the Dutch who, when they first came to America and settled in New Amsterdam (New York), pronounced Saint Nicholas “Sinterklass,” aka Santa Claus. 

How did Santa’s appearance evolve?  The answer is an American one:  In 1809, New York writer Washington Irving (“The Legend of Sleepy Hollow”) wrote a series of satirical works referred to as “The Knickerbocker Tales.”  In these “‘Tales,” St. Nicholas is promoted as the patron saint of New York society.  Riding over tops of trees and bringing presents to children, Irving refers to him as small, elfish, with a pipe, and capable of sliding down chimneys.

By 1821, New York printer William Gilley put forth a poem about “Santeclaus” who dressed all in fur and drove a sleigh pulled by one reindeer.   Clement Clark Moore—New York, 1823, wrote the classic poem, “Twas The Night Before Christmas” a defining image for Santa and his swift team of reindeer, now totaling eight. 

According to Snopes.com, Santa remained elfin until about 1841, when J.W. Parkinson of Philadelphia hired a man to dress as Santa for his mercantile, and climb down a chimney outside his shop—the first time Santa is recorded as a full-sized person, and connected with retailing.

In 1863, the cartoons of Thomas Nast were presented in “Harper’s Weekly.”  Santa got a beard, fur from head to foot, and his first red suit; George P. Webster, who wrote copy for Nast’s drawings, gave Saint Nicholas the North Pole as his home. 

By 1885, when Louis Prang of Boston, an illustrator of Christmas cards, chose red over all the other Santa suit colors (green, white, purple, brown, blue), Saint Nicholas took on the style and appearance that he has today. 

There are those who think that Santa Claus, in his famous red suit with white fur, was a figment of Coca Cola’s corporately colored imagination.  Nope.  During the 1930’s, the era of the Great Depression, an illustrator named Haddon Sundblom did a drawing of Santa holding a bottle of Coca Cola as a marketing idea.  It was an instant success, galvanizing the notion of Santa’s already red suit, and also reaping excellent rewards for Coke.  But the colorful image of Santa Claus was cemented long before the 1930’s.

What about the Santa suit today?  For one jolly old soul, this multi-million dollar business sells hundreds of thousands of garments per year.   There are over 25,000 Santa suit purchasing sites online, alone.  It’s mostly seasonal, but with sales occurring year round.  Volume wise, Santa suits are second only to Halloween in the costume/uniform business.

Halco is one of the 2 largest Santa suit manufacturers in the U.S.  “We’ve been in business since 1945,” says principal, Terri Greenberg.  “We produce 52,000 suits per year.  We used to have 72 fulltime stateside sewing operators.  Now, we have ten.”   What used to be an American business is going more and more offshore because American manufacturers can’t compete with the pricing.  Terry, herself, lives in the Far East part time, in order to maintain quality control at her plants both here and abroad. 

Shari McConahay, co-owner of retail SantaSuits.com, purchases from wholesale manufacturers like Terri.  Shari is adamant about buying American and feels strongly that American suits are better made; with offshore garments, quality control is a mixed bag.   Her business has been selling the Santa uniform since the early ’70’s.  Shari dedicates 20% of her company’s 18,000 sq. ft. warehouse space for the Santa suits, alone. 

A Santa suit can be purchased retail anywhere from $27.95, for a one-size-fits-all stretch, to a plush satin-lined fully trimmed out custom garment at $700.00.  With accoutrements, such as padding, beards, eyebrows, glasses, boots, belts, gloves, etc, that’s about $1,000 for the complete suit.  Depending on the vendor, profits can be plus or minus 100% above cost.

The costumes can come in red, burgundy, white, green and even blue.  But red is by far and away the best seller.  There are variations of style and quality with coats, hoods, brocade, and period pieces—in polyester, flannel, felt, vinyl, leather, satin, velvet, velour, or plush fur fabrics. 

“There are those who purchase for parties, office gatherings, and family scenes.  Then, there are the ‘professionals,’ who work the malls, hospitals and charitable organizations, photography displays, parades, and street corners,” according to retailer, Larry Meidberg, at Clicket.com. 

There’s something special about a uniform that commands both kindness and respect.  Like true elves, all three companies are working 15 hour days to get everyone suited up in time for the Christmas season.  “For many Santas it’s like a calling,” said Shari.  “Every year they will spruce up their accessories or their uniforms, so that they are perfect.  Children are the first to tell you if something is wrong.” 

Lisa Stewart: Superior Design & Merchandising: UniformMarketNews.Com

Lisa Stewart is the kind of woman they make movies about:  Single, a veteran career executive, born in Atlanta, moved to New York at 23, and now the Vice President of Design and Merchandising with Superior Uniform Group in Florida.  Interested in the apparel business since childhood, Lisa worked 18 years for Hart-Marx before switching to Superior.  A marathon runner, golfer, skier, Lisa has always been a type A+ personality; on the go, yet sensible and measured every step of the way.  "One of the things I've learned about when participating in sports, is the incredible fabric variances and all that they can withstand," says the excited and highly motivated young woman.

"I'm always thinking of the big picture," Lisa emphasizes.  She is at once working on both internal and external design projects;  what's new and best for Superior's offerings to its customers, as well as designing directly for Superior accounts.  Not only is she dedicated to customer support, but she focuses a savvy eye toward growing the business aspect of her company.   While she was with retail-based Hart-Marx, she was head of design in the women's division of the primarily men's tailored clothing corporation.  Working with Superior on several projects, she gradually moved over from one company to the other. 

Now,  Lisa brings a new perspective to Superior Uniform Group--the wholesale/retail apparel trade.  "I've worked with designers for Ever," Lisa remarks in her Southern drawl.  "I see things from a business point of view, and I'm very fussy about fabrics, fittings, and style.  I know what's right.  Uniforms can be attractive for street wear, as well as for identity."

Superior had had several exciting projects in place before Lisa came on board:  Tailored products, eco-friendly recycled fabrics, and 100% polyesters  that are machine washable and dryable.   "There are great merits in these new fabrics for the consumers and the economy--and the technology is out there!" 

Lisa insists, "It's all about marketing-generated awareness.   We've got tailored apparel that is good for 30 washings.  You don't wash suiting every time you wear it, or it would destroy the tailored product.  If you clean it once for each of the four seasons, it is good for seven years!  We are tailoring in recycled polyester, poly and Lycra, and poly wool.  It's unbeatable."

In all categories, Lisa Stewart is infusing her own background, as she combines with the Superior focus: Eco-friendly fabrics are emerging in polos, wovens, trousers, and more.  "People are committed to doing something about the environment at our corporate level.  Knowing that Superior will lose customers if it doesn't,  has made a huge difference," Lisa smiles.  "Caps, aprons, cotton garments--we're doing so many things for both the retail trade, and for branded companies."

The general trend is for tailored garments to make a re-emergence, but in reality, it may not happen.  As it is now, Superior is very big on sportswear.  What's fabulous is that so many other companies, such as Under Armour, Nike, etc., are presenting with whole new fabric technologies.  Superior is taking advantage of that technology in a big way.   "Things like wicking, stain release, Teflon coating-- these are all processes that used to be new; now, they're just taken for granted.  People who are active expect SPF protection, anti-bacterial coverage and more, as part of the garment," Lisa reveals.

Aesthetics?  Lisa focuses the tailored garments in charcoal, black, navy, and brown's.   The accessories may vary with the customer.  Superior is very careful not to date itself.   "It's a challenge," Lisa reminds, "to be fresh and maintain longevity at the same time.  We're doing color-blocking with two and three different areas of bold different hues, contrast stitching, brighter colors--more creativity with fewer price points.  We're doing branding with logos at every level of the customer's needs: The front and back of the house.  We do stores and private customer accounts; small independent boutique hotels to huge corporations."  Superior's catalogues are being completely re-designed to focus on these changing times.

"Superior has often been portrayed as being very plain--a brass tacks organization.  I wouldn't have joined if that were so.  Marketing has everything to do with reality and how we're portrayed," Lisa comments.  "We have a great marketing team, a tremendous design team, and we're all moving forward together!"   

  

Unisync Group Re-Brands Itself: UniformMarketNews.Com

Ryan Beliveau, Marketing Coordinator for Unisync Group, Ltd., tells all about Kilmer Capital Group's ingenious concept of linking three varied and outstanding identity companies to form a single entity.  Since 1929, the superb Hammill Company, Canadian leader that rivals Carhardt, VF Industries, and Tough Duck, for workwear and back-of-the-house service apparel, has maintained its integrity, quality, and fine name in the uniform industry.  Now, it has morphed to become an arm of Unisync.

York,  custom manufacturer of frontline service for casinos, restaurants, and VIP venues, has also transitioned to Unisync.  York is a full-service company with designers, representatives, artists, patterns, and multiple fabric & notions vendors on hand to provide every necessity in order to complement high-end corporations with the most stunning of garments.  Recently, one of their cocktail waitress uniforms won the award for "Outstanding Casino Design" (Niagara Falls Casino Resort), at the North American Uniform Manufacturers & Distributors convention, in March 2010.

Finally, Show Room One, a promotional products entity, with scads of items from ballpoint pens, mugs, gizmos, and identity apparel-- everything to enhance customer image while remaining within any given budget--also has joined the Unisync family.  Both embroidery and screen-printing services are available in-house.  "These things generate excitement for the consumer," emphasizes Ryan.

The amalgamation of these individual corporations began in 2003, and has slowly but surely brought both customers and employees of each into what is now known as Unisync.  "The good thing about having the three brands under one roof," says Ryan, "is that it's very good for the customers  to have one-stop-shopping.    We've taken our time, so that customers who are loyal to one or another of the separate companies, feel comfortable with the newer Unisync concept and understand that standards and familiarity with the brands will not be lost with these mergers.   At the same time, they have three times as much to choose from, when purchasing garments and identity items for their establishments."   

Located in Ontario, Canada, Unisync is run primarily out of a single facility, encompassing over 100,000 square feet.  While it has a few items manufactured offshore, Unisync prides itself on being a privately held Canadian firm.  It has reps who travel and project managers who are assigned to each regional area or larger single projects; ultimately, the company is under one roof.  "We don't find it difficult to ship to the 'States at all," says Ryan.

"We have worked very hard to re-brand, and instill in our employees that we are a single unit, and whether it's our new website, our soon-to-be-released catalogue, the way we answer the telephone, or our signature, everything about us is concentrated on the Unisync concept of being one flexible company.  A customer can come here and receive full service for everything and anything desired."

Beliveau mentions that some of the Unisync customers are grocery chains, Burger King, Taco Bell, and Pizza Hut.  Its focus is on big projects; however, Ryan states, it works with smaller companies, too.  "We sell direct when we're dealing with larger accounts, but we also distribute wholesale to others.  We understand how the smaller cities and towns make use of the commerce in their individual uniform shops,  and we have no desire to undercut our customers, no matter who it is."

The focus at Unisync is terrific looks, fit, and comfort.  "At Unisync, we have some of the best people in the industry who can bring an image to reality, " says Ryan Beliveau.  "Total Program Management differentiates us from other companies and if a customer needs his merchandise in a rush, he gets it in a rush! Three days or three weeks to do an entirely customized operation is not a problem for us; it gets done. "

The Best of The Rest: Interview with Made to Measure Magazine

                              North American Association of Uniform Manufacturers 

                                            and Distributors Awards   2010

Las Vegas, venue for this year's Convention where awards were presented for the most outstanding uniform programs.  The two primary categories:  Safety, and Images of the Year (IOY).  The first--uniforms for those who serve to protect our population; the second--best designs in uniforms that enhanced a product, place, and concept.

Within these two areas, there were a total of 22 awards.  Each award represented a winning category as well as its own unique presentation.  Several awards were given to the same manufacturers, whose talents and creativity spanned multiple ideas and designs.

For over 30 years, NAUMD has been recognizing efforts to create styles that enhance the presentation of these groups.  Each primary category had multiple criteria, many of which were similar in terms of durability, wearability during the tasks performed on the job, fabrics and designs utilized for image enhancement as well as practicality and comfort.  Other characteristics were unique unto themselves:  Projection of confidence, reassurance, and organization were key for the Safety programs; IOY programs effused end-product quality, keen marketing dynamics that projected a unified and focused brand & theme,  and identity that customers could grab on to and remember.   Competition was tough.

No matter the area of expertise, the concept of the whole presentation was paramount; recognition and identification with intent and purpose of the program, was the final nod for an outstanding uniform apparel award.  "New technologies, fabric enhancements and innovation in design and composition are key to being named the best of the best!" exuded Richard Lehrman, President and CEO of NAUMD.

*

Red the Uniform Tailor scooped up two awards in the Safety category.   Michael Buck worked with the University of Delaware Police, garnering the "University Police Department Award," and Bruce Klein headed up the Old Saybrook (Connecticut) Police Department , winning kudos for the outstanding "Police Department Under 50 Officers."

While both men sponsored entirely different departments, the representation from Red's was of equal excellence in both areas.  The U. of Delaware Police was a force of 60 officers, all dressed the same, with incredible attention to detail.  If you can believe it, the gold thread color from the shoulder emblems, hash marks, and chevrons--used to denote rank--was the exact same shade of gold as the inlaid gold cloth striping on the pants.  The uniform pants were a poly wool serge with a terrific matching Class "A"  military dress blouse, sporting wide shoulders and a narrow waist with room for a Sam Brown styled gun belt to be worn over the top.  The General Pershing styled hat complemented the ensemble.  The shirts (long and short sleeved) were a lighter weight than the coat and pants--11 oz. or 8 oz, whereas the outer garments were a 14 oz weight.  The shirts had sewn-in creases, double elbows, reinforced pockets,  a hidden zipper front; everything was attended to meticulously. 

The reason for this year's win with the University is that the group, itself, decided to stop using off-the-rack items, and decided to customize the exact same design it had used for years, but with better fit, fabric, quality, and attention to the people's figures who were wearing the uniforms.

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Old Saybrook, on the other hand, was sporting a brand new design, purchased with money that the 20 person department had raised itself, spearheaded by its new Chief of Police, Michael Sperta.   There's a story regarding the history of the force, but essentially, when the old chief retired, the old uniforms went with him.  Red the Uniform Tailor, under the design and direction of Bruce Klein, came up with P&F  blue and lighter blue garments that not only had an official image, but some razzle dazzle as well.  The fairly standard styled garments had squared off knit ties, and "trooper" cowboy hats.  

Sperta is quite a showman, and he introduced the new uniforms on stage--the old uniforms and retiring Chief vanishing behind a closing curtain; at once opening again, with the new Chief and new uniforms.  "Image is everything in this business," said Bruce.  "How a department looks and presents itself is what makes the difference between an agency that can solve a situation with speech, vs. the agency that gets into the brawl.  If the uniform is so classy that no one wants to mess it up, then the officers will be less willing to fight, and the instigators will be less willing to engage."

Klein and his brothers, Barry and Harvey, own Red's.  Begun in 1977 as a security guard manufacturer, the corporation now offers several different brochures with multiple thematic concepts:  Everything from police to cocktail waitresses.  No matter what the company does, however, the same intensely personal focus is attached to each order--thread, fabric, buttons, design, quality fabric, appropriateness for the weather, practicality, economy, and use.  A very fine group, supported with superb sales people such as Michael Buck, Red the Uniform Tailor was easily deserving of its two awards.

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Perfection Uniforms, manufacturer, was presented to the West Virginia Sheriffs' Association  by loyal dealer, Ronk's Uniform Center.  Winner of the NAUMD award for "Special Organization,"  Miranda Brock told about a people invested in its state, and in its uniforms.  With a designer who hummed, "Take me home, West Virginia," as he created the concept for the 65 counties whose members all decided to wear the same uniform, including patrol cars with paint that was matched to the fabric of the garments in order to blend everything into the rugged backwoods terrain of the state, the story of the West Virginia Sheriffs is a unique one.  "We appreciate customers who inspire what we do; it's because of them that we're growing," said Miranda.  "The recession has allowed so many people to have so many choices.  They could go anywhere, but they chose us."

800 members of every single department in the state chose Perfection, a new and small-based company that was affiliated with such a large order for the first time, and it literally took years to complete, in part due to funding.  It was a genuine grass roots project to get these folks in proper attire.  Functionality and comfort, including water repellency, were primary.  The colors were black for the shirts, as well as the trouser stripe, and grey for the pants, themselves.  Perfection provided the garments, alone.  All accessories were provided by others, and the groups worked in combination with one another to create a winning team.

The sentimentality for the project was focused on boosting officer morale, being non-invasive or frightening to the public, and reminding the public of who was in charge.  Originally, another company had the account, but Perfection added such perks as better technology, stain resistant fabrics, a gusset in the crotch, and an expandable waistband.   The sheriffs in West Virginia won this award, and it was just that--perfection.

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A tie.  Yep.  For the "County Sheriffs' Departments" award, it was a tie between Guidry's Uniforms for the Vermillion Parish Sheriffs' Department, and Nye Uniforms for Roscommon County Sheriffs' Department.

Tom Meagher purchased 62-year old Guidry's, in 1980.  A safety apparel family-owned retailer,  this 12,000 sq. foot establishment prides itself on ready-to-wear garments that are then completely customized to fit the customers' sizes and need for unique styling.    The Vermillion Parish had its share of tragedy with the Louisiana storms of Katrina and Rita.  Many of the deputies' lives were washed out or partially ruined.  Thus, when the new Sheriff wanted something new for his Departments, he came to Tom, not only with unique ideas in mind, but with a need for budget, a moral boost, and practicality as well.

Ordering from only the best--Blauer, Fechheimer, Southeastern, and Smith & Warren, Guidry's customized the basic garments, identifying rank, too.  The royal pants with a piggyback stripe in yellow-gold and silver, a tan shirt with royal and the yellow-gold, the waterproof LAPD navy jacket had a removable lining, and was a Smokey Bear hat with royal: A totally new look in Louisiana. 

Approximately 450 sets of uniforms were made of polyester-gabardine garments are American-made, don't fade, easy-care, less expensive, washable, and water resistant.  "Service, trust, long-term relationships, and quality are the secret to customer relationships," said Tom.  "Our focus is on staying positive."

  

Nye's Uniforms in Grand Rapids, Michigan, is a distributor, rather than a manufacturer.  His uniforms are often made by Red the Uniform Tailor, whom Bill Nye feels is the best, anywhere.  But Nye, himself, is a fine salesman, and put together an excellent program for the 30 dress blouses  in tan and brown that distinguished the multiple departments  of officers who heretofore had nothing but a basic off-the-shelf shirt and pants.  For 75 years, Nye has been providing superb garments for public safety apparel.  By reversing the colors of the garments, these blouses varied for each department: Correctional, Road Patrol, S.W.A.T. members.  Some wore hats, some didn't.  The fellows picked the best 16.5 oz. elastique poly wool available.  Top drawer. 

Originally, Nye's handled the Roscommon Department, lost it to a cheaper bid, then got it back a year or so ago: Quality and good service overrode fewer dollars.  The Sheriff wanted everyone to have a good looking dress uniform; hence, he collected the money, and over time, department by department, the town has paid for these garments.  Each member is "taped," or custom measured rather than fitted with try-on's.  Every detail is paid attention to.  All accessories that go with the department and the task are provided.  Is it any wonder that Nye's Uniforms have been NAUMD winners for the last four years?

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"Best State Agency" winner was the California Highway Patrol--a Fechheimer customer for decades.  6,800 officers are outfitted in the tightly specked uniform code of standards.  According to Fred Heldman, "While multiple companies are authorized to service these officers, there's no question that Fechheimer won the award due to experience and expertise in uniform manufacturing, and particularly high-end tailored garments."

The uniform consists of wool and wool blends--best for appearance, comfort and durability.  High-profile representation in California through well-established retail companies, provides in-stock services and expert tailoring facilities.

The uniform projects authority, in part as a result of constant inspections to check for uniform maintenance and fit.  The uniforms are traditionally khaki colored with a campaign hat and blue & gold trouser braid.  The dress uniform includes a green jacket and a royal blue tie.  Cold weather and utility uniforms are dark blue. 

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Outstanding "Special Agency" award goes to Galls-Aramark for the U.S. Mint Police.   Nine years ago, Galls took over the Mint contract under the supervision of Molly Roberts.  The Mints include the six American facilities that produce coin and store gold at Fort Knox.  Aramark purchased Galls in 1995; the latter is a distributor of safety apparel and accouterments.  For the Mint, alone, the contract called for over 200 separate worn items to be provided in mass quantities.

The appearance of the officers, honor guards, and operations teams--used for transportation of the coinage, and protection in the Mints, themselves--was key to the award.  "The Mint prides itself on classy, traditional look with new innovations as they are developed," reflects Molly.  Different garments for different locations, the use of Cool Max and Under Armor for comfort, a classy clean look that is very professional, all go into the makeup of a top-notch set of garments. 

They are navy blue, no striping.  Hats very with division and function.  The outerwear depends on climate.  All badge and patch applications were made and/or applied in-house at Galls.  The goods is poly wool, everything the same weight.  The more specialized the particular uniform, the more varied the fabric--durable, colorfast, everyone wearing the exact same color.  There are no counterfeits in the quality of the uniforms, nor in the manufacture of the money: Galls is professionalism at its best with its second win for the Mints.     

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Newfoundland, originally a British Canadian province, still has constabularies for its constables, rather than police departments; hence,  R. Nicholls' Distributing, Inc. won the award for the best "Canadian Safety Department--" the Royal Newfoundland Constabulary.  Brian O'Connor represented his account, which had its uniforms made by Perfection Uniforms.   Nicholls's is a uniform distributor, also with its own private label brand, that sells to law enforcement groups.

The fabric for these uniforms is polyester and recycled pop-bottles with polyester.   They are navy with royal braid.  The pants are a cargo style, a standard police-styled cap, and outer body armor.  There is tremendous attention to detail and comfort, with the crotch gusset, expandable waist, wicking inside the garments, and repellency outside of them.  The shirts have a stretch in the underarm.  280 members wear the exact same 1,120 uniforms, other than ranking on the sleeves and collars.

The entry design is basically the same as it was in the past, but Perfection's new attention to detail is what convinced the Constabulary.  Brian states that Nicholl's solicited the Department.  "We were big enough to handle the order, we were new, they liked our product, and they liked Nicholls's."

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The biggest winner in either the Safety Apparel category or the IOY, was Cintas Corporation--four awards, each for a different uniform program in the Image of the Year division.  Cintas Corporation, based in Cincinnati, Ohio, provides highly specialized services to business of all types around the world.  It designs,   manufactures, and implements corporate identity uniform programs, providing apparel and supplementary items.  For the 11th straight year, Cintas swept with:  "Healthcare--" Florida Hospital Cardiovascular  Institute; "Hotel Single Unit (United States)--" The Pierre Hotel; "Restaurants Fast Food--" The Panda Express; "Cruise Lines--" Royal Caribbean of the Seas.  Andi Vance provided information that covered all four separate and unique venues.

In the healthcare category, Cintas developed an apparel program for five different departments within the Florida Hospital Cardiovascular Institute.  To complement the corporate color palette, the scrubs incorporate a complete custom color program centered around the color cinnamon.  In addition, Cintas designed a patterned trim with a custom heart-shaped design along with the Florida Hospital logo to honor the focus of the renowned organization.

"This prestigious award truly reflects the integrity of our apparel program," said Danielle Johnson, Assistant Vice President of the Hospital.  "This facility is committed to quality care, so we wanted a uniform program that reflected our brand, while enhancing the job functions of each employee.  By working with key personnel throughout the process, Cintas helped us to develop a program that met everyone's needs."

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The Pierre Hotel in New York is a luxury apparel program balancing the high-class nature of the age-old establishment with the durability and comfort necessary for work.  The Cintas winning designs combine traditional European styling with form and function to enhance the guest experience and celebrate the hotel's $100 million  renovation.

"Cintas developed a luxury collection that echoes our brand and the environment in which our employees serve," said Hekio Kuenstle, General Manager of The Pierre Hotel.  "We wanted to set the standard for outstanding hospitality, and an award-winning uniform program further sets us apart from the competition."

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For the Panda Express, it's important to showcase a top-of-the-line apparel program for the back of the house staff, because the fast food restaurant operates with an exposed kitchen.  The Asian-inspired uniforms include black complementary chef and cook tunics, each with red accents and the iconic Panda Express logo on the right arm and back.  The chef version is differentiated by a Chinese character trim.  A traditional skull cap has been updated and re-thought to include mesh panels and adjustable straps.  Both uniforms are paired with four-way reversible aprons.

"Panda's mission is to deliver exceptional Asian dining experiences to our guests during every visit.  When guests enter a Panda Express, we want to 'wow' them in all five senses and showcase the culinary skills of our chefs preparing delicious Asian cuisine with fresh ingredients," said Nader Garschi, Executive Director of Concept Innovation at Panda Express.  "Cintas was a great partner in executing that goal by creating a cultural connector uniform that properly reflected the higher quality of the Panda Express brand."

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For the cruise line award, Cintas created day, evening, and formal wear garments to enhance the new Royal Caribbean Oasis of the Seas' "Neighborhoods" concept.  This concept provided vacationers with the opportunity to seek out relevant experiences, based on their personal styles, preferences, or moods.  The garments feature a blue theme for day, and black charcoal for night.  Formal wear can be difficult to maintain when dry-cleaning services are not available, but the custom poly-wool blend is both easy to care for and durable.

"We are honored to have four programs selected for these prestigious awards," said Bill Goetz, Cintas' President and Chief Operating Officer of Global Accounts and Strategic Markets.  "These awards are a testament to the way our designers and merchandising team are able to work with our customers and create functional fashions that match any aesthetic."

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Moving into "Transportation" and the Image of the Year awards,  Hawaiian Airlines was captured by four-and one-half year old company, Apparel Solutions.  Two fun, hardworking, entrepreneurial fellows--Ron Steel, who has years of uniform experience, and his partner who is an IT genius, have combined to create this fabulous company. 

Hawaiian, in honor of its 80th anniversary, decided to celebrate by getting all new uniforms, and giving the airline a completely revamped look.  They remodeled and re-decorated.  More muted tones permeated the planes, the ticket counters, and baggage.  Apparel Solutions was responsible for the attendants, the ticket counter folks, and the baggage men: "Above the wings and below the wings," as Ron referred to the various employees. 

Hawaiian has been the top-ranked on-time airline for years, and just as it has paid keen attention to detail, so Apparel Solutions paid attention to every tiny detail to the 2,300 uniforms in multiple styles of teals & azure prints with solid greys.  Everything from day-glo orange T-shirts to elegant blazers and skirts were collected and presented to the airline. 

One of the best aspects of the program is that every employee was given his own access to the website, with a special catalogue for the Hawaiian Airline products, each customized for that employee's particular job, having points available for dollars to spend, and availability to order in the necessary size! With the time-zone changes, it was a uniform salesman's dream.

The styles were very very much a part of the brand--the Asian look.  The buttonless blazers have mandarin collars; neither the shirts, blouses, or blazers are allowed to have pockets, all buttons are monochromatic and match the color of the garments, and wherever possible, there are no buttons at all.  Minimalist.  Simple.  An HMS fabric, 8.5 oz, a beautiful, soft hand. Sophisticated, elegant, and easy to wear.

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Lion Uniform Group, a G&K Services Company, is the manufacturing and direct purchase division of the corporation.  Jeanna Peifer, Vice President & General Manager was proud of the talented and diversified company that won two NAUMD awards: for best "Retail Establishment," ampm, and for "Special Recognition" award for Class V.

Lion has had over 10 years of marketing experience with the petroleum industry, and in that time gasoline sales has morphed from the gasoline pump to the convenience store.   ampm , in ten states across America, is allied with over 1,100 Arco and BP stations.  When the brand team changed the image of its stores, some 10,000 uniforms were re-vamped and transposed into workable uniforms that were comfortable, functional, easy to launder, reasonably priced, and provided an eye-catching memory for the customer.

The basic uniforms were long and short-sleeved shirts, male and female stylings, outerwear, and an apron.  Pants were up to the employees.  A very astute design team created the garments as well as the terrific coordinating pattern done with sublimation color printing that advertised all the goodies that ampm sells.  Their slogan is "Too much good stuff." 

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Lion Uniform Group, with its umbrella corporation G&K Services Company, is a Fortune 500 offering.  Its employees are hardworking, creative, and dedicated to producing a product that is not soon forgotten.  Proof of that is its diversification with the "Special Recognition" award for Class V, a completely different concept than that of ampm.

L.A. coterie designer, Richard Tyler, who works with Lion on many projects, produced a high-end, tailored group of garments in black: Blazers, skirts or slacks, and outerwear.  The shirts and blouses are white.  For the 14 color accents that contrast with the basic design of the very basic garments, the coat lining, collars, scarves, accessories, are all eye-catchers that sparkle throughout the locations in 138 countries, with 25-50 employees each.  Each style is friendly, employee approachable, and comfortable.  The customer is at once, engaged by the striking colors, the elegant styling, and the subtle but definite weave and presence of religious crosses into the high-styled, fabulous apparel.

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Superior Uniform Group is another big NAUMD winner.  Ruby's Diner won for the "Restaurants, Multi-Unit" category; the Hilton Corporate won for "Hotels, Multi-Unit."  Speaking with Janice Henry, Vice President of Marketing; Viv Smith, Marketing, and Sandy Pegler, Merchandising Manager, it's clear why this group captured multiple awards: They're excited about what they do, they work hard, they're a team.

Ruby's is a diner concept from the 1940's, steel and chrome outside, with red and white everything inside.  The waitresses have the white half aprons, red and white striped outfits, and even little headbands for their hair.  The fellows wear black pants, black slim-Jim ties, and white broadcloth shirts.  Everything matches.  Theme is paramount, the visual rules. 

Superior has been doing Ruby's for a long time--seven-eight years.  The reason why it won this year?  It was submitted.  This is a perfect example of the manufacturer giving the customer exactly what he wants.  It's about customer attention, and having a wonderful time.  "What a great company we are to have an in-house design department!" said Janice.

As Ruby's was a totally visual experience, the Hilton Corporate Hotels was a cerebral one--a mood, a vision, a deliberately coordinated experience.  Hilton, too, has been with Superior for seven years.  The entire focus is around global involvement with environment, ecosystems, and going "green."    Fabrics are eco-friendly, with recycled polyester, Lycra, or regular polyester.  Washable, fashionable to the point of being worn outside of work, based on retail looks,  both Housekeeping and the Front Desk garments were entered in the NAUMD award experience, albeit  Superior does the hotels from front to back of the house.

The color palette was chocolate, bark, and charcoal with black.  Neutrals and earth tones, only.  Two-three years in advance, in color-forecasting and design--pants, skirts, blazers, and stunning blues, silver & bronze--solids and a stripe--in blouses and shirts.  The details?  Stretch elbows in the fabrics, moisture wicking in the backs, a soft hand and a luxurious feel.

Today's world is full of younger employees who want a contemporary look, with "green" being a big factor in the Hospitality quadrant.   With their two collections, Select, and Signature, Superior Uniform Group feels very pleased with what it has done.  "We worked darn hard on this," emphasized Janice.

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Another hotel took the best "Hotel--Single Unit (Canadian)," and that was the Pan Pacific Hotel Vancouver, designed and manufactured by Omega Uniform Systems (formerly Omega Frontline).  Margaret Ramsdale is the owner and president of this 10-year-old company, her first account being this particular hotel.   One of the outstanding features of the program is that the employees each have their own web-accounts, tailored to their job descriptions, uniforms for the purpose, and amount of money to spend.  Thus, ordering online from measurements to delivery at the employee's front door, is computerized, and a snap.

Omega, originally having begun in hotels and the hospitality industry, now focuses on transportation--everything from bus lines to cruise ships.  It is a manufacturer and direct seller of uniform programs, as well as doing its own designs.

The doormen coats were Omega's entry for the NAUMD awards, and the exterior of the hotel in glass and steel, as well as the surrounding mountains, the lake, the misty climate, all inspired a monochromatic look of blacks, charcoals, and greys.   The garments are clean in terms of design, and match the simplicity of the structure.  Winter uniforms are charcoal with light grey accents; summer is a lighter weight in lighter grey with charcoal accents.  There are pewter buttons, with silver striping in a matte finish. 

The reason they won this year for the two-year old program is that Margaret decided to enter into the contest this year as opposed to last.  Living in Canada, the NAUMD  awards are newer, and just beginning to catch on.  However, catch on, she did, as her first award came for the Holland America Cruise Lines in 2009. 

"The Pan Pacific uniforms are the result of taking traditional styling and interpreting it in a traditional way," smiled Margaret.  "Everything is neutral, and nothing is shiny.  It is low contrast, minimalist, low key.  The customer is thrilled with the aesthetics, and the doormen loved the functionality as well as the style."  There were four-six doormen, and a total of 24 uniforms, overall.

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Brookhurst, Inc. is a manufacturer of garments coming out of California.  It won the best design for the "Service Apparel" winner with client, Mary Kay, Inc.  Brookhurst has had the account for the last six-seven years;  however, it has decided to close its doors, and The Lion Uniform Group, a G&K Services Company, will take over in the future.  Over the years, Mary Kay has won again and again through Brookhurst, as the fashion collection reinvents itself each year, keeping pace with the retail fashion industry.

  Elena Morgan knows the program inside and out.  In the U.S., there are 13,000 wearers of the Red Jacket Directors' Program for Mary Kay Independent Sales Directors who coach the over 650,000  Independent Beauty Consultants.  Mary Kay is one of the world's largest direct sellers of skin care and cosmetics.  Globally,  there are approximately two million Independent Beauty Consultants.

The current program consisted of three uniquely different jackets, tailored in an exclusive sapphire blue and black mélange worsted wool fabric, developed especially for Mary Kay. The three choices were a long jacket with a funnel neck, curved border accent with black silk piping, in a 25" length; a short modern peaked lapel jacket with banded border and shaped waist illusion in a 22" length; a young, trendy swing jacket with inverted back pleats and 3/4 lantern sleeves in a new 21" length.

Skirts are available in five lengths, insuring that every Sales Director has an option that meets her style and figure.  There are two different styles of skirts:  Pencil with double back pleat; and ankle length with elegant peplum back detail.  Levels of accomplishment are recognized by distinctive camisole sweaters, bejeweled above the Director level. Seniors shimmer in iridescent blue sequins and beads; Futures shine in navy sequins and beads; Executive Seniors and Elites sparkle in embellished pewter/silver sequins and beads with rhinestone accents.  Elites are recognized by an exquisite National Sales Director-inspired button.

An alternate scoop neck sleeveless sheath dress may be worn with the jackets.  There are also accessories and complementary prints.

The uniforms are durable and comfortable, able to be worn year-round throughout the U.S. and abroad.  They are appropriate for women ranging in sizes from 00 to 40, plus an equally fashionable outfit for expectant mothers.  There are suits in three jacket lengths, offered in petites, regulars, and talls.  washable sweaters and blouses are elegant, durable, comfortable and tasteful.  Fabric that will withstand the attachment of numerous recognition awards, while maintaining its integrity and good looks for the duration of the program, is a must.

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Winner of the outstanding "Casino" uniforms is the Unisync Group LTD, originating from Canada.  Ryan Beliveau. Marketing Coordinator....

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  The Disney Costume Wearhouse won two awards:  One for best "Arena or Sports Facility--" ESPN Wide World of Sports; and one for "Restaurants, Fine Dining--" Sanaa.  All one has to do is say the magic word: Disney; to know it's full of thought, cultural and art history research, giggles, and customer-oriented fun.

The ESPN Wide World of Sports Arena is located on the mammoth Disney World campus, in Orlando, Florida.  It's a multi-faceted area where both amateur and professional athletes come to compete and play.  Disney's job,  according to Jodi White, was to build a costume that combined both the professionalism of an athletic area with all of the sparkle and delight of Disney World.  It is a merger of ABC's Wide World of Sports, and ESPN (Entertainment Sports Programming Network).

The new uniforms were a result of the new partnership, and needed after ten years of wear.  The costumes are more "today," and more about the ESPN brand.  Everything is more sports' oriented, more authentic.  The designers didn't want the employees to look like they were representing just one sport, but all sports.  The color palette is ESPN red, with the ESPN logo on everything, and easy to identify:  Guest Services, Food & Beverage, Athletic Coordinators, and everyone who works in the Arena.  There were two categories: 85% wore red polos with logos front & back, with black pants or shorts and a red windbreaker or fleece jacket.  The other 15% at the Welcome Center who do setup, logistics, and competitions, wear light grey, but in the same outfit.  Everyone has a baseball cap with different logos. 

Champion athletic fabrics that were used, included wicking for moisture absorption, safety with reflective tape where necessary, logo branding, due to the stretch of the fabric the ability to fit several sizes, were highly branded and themed to Disney.

"These uniforms are tied in with ESPN," said Jodi, " but they're Disney costumes.  We have received such positive feedback from attendees, as well as our cast, who are happy and comfortable, and having a very good time with a true sports venue, feeling good about themselves.  It was a fantastic partnership--ESPN and the Wide World of Sports."  There were 700 people, and approximately 8,500 garments.

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Sanaa is a South African themed premiere food location restaurant, a part of the Animal Kingdom Lodge, located in Kidani Village, Disney World.  Unique, Sanaa is built in a circular fashion with high windows all around, so that a small savannah complete with wild animals, is able to be viewed from every seat in the establishment.  Resulting from research involving fabrics, textiles, and colors, costumes were built for the wait staff, as authentically as possible, and yet were as comfortable and functional as they were germane to the culture that the restaurant represented. 

There were two kinds of costumes: The wait staff, who were dressed in very colorful electric blue and rusts, wearing a dyed poly cotton print that imitated primitive kuba cloth, or twine.  The shirts were blue, pants were spice, with vests that were brown, beige, or gold.  Everything was a solid but the vests; The greeters represented international students, and their costumes depicted their countries of origin--daily garments worn for men and women. 

For the men, a round little pillbox hat or kufi, was worn; a dashiki or v-necked top, and pants.  A unique print, created by the Disney costume people, who came up with their own design after studying many others.  The colors were all earth tones of spice, orange, yellow, chocolate, red.    The women  wore long, fitted tops to mid hip, and a fitted skirt with a flair at the bottom, in colors that tied in with the wait staff, in rusts and blues.

The more inspiration one gives to the designers, the better it is.  The interior color samples, tile, wall coverings, table coverings, the particular job to design for, and involvement from project managers.  "Disney is considered a leader in innovation re: fabrics, prints, designs, new ways of sewing things.  It is always about surprising the guests," said Pam .   The garments must be functional, and the casts love them.  In addition, they must fit into the atmosphere of the venue, and the guests love them. "  There are 50 wait staff or 250 sets of costumes; 8 greeters, or 40 sets of costumes.  There is always a full size range kept in stock.

"We are so proud of what we produce here, and it's nice to have a chance to brag about our product," laughed Jodi White.  "We are the industry leaders in the type of work we do, and it's nice to be recognized for it."

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2010 NAUMD Awards--A Closeup!: Interviews with Made to Measure Magazine

2010 NAUMD AWARDS--A CLOSE-UP!

Las Vegas was the location for this year's Convention, where awards for the most outstanding uniform programs were presented in two categories: Safety apparel, and Images of the Year (IOY).  The first--uniforms for those who serve to protect our population; the second--best designs in uniforms that enhanced a product, place, and concept.

22 awards represented a sub-category, accenting unique appearance and functionality in the workplace.  Each contestant had multiple requirements--some similar, some different.    Competition was tough.   Interestingly, the traits or concepts that made one winner a success was what another winner pooh-poohed. 

"New technologies, fabric enhancements and innovation in design and composition are key to being named the best of the best!" exuded Richard Lerman, President and CEO of NAUMD.

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AWARD:  University Police Department

WHO:  Red the Uniform Tailor, with Michael Buck

FOR: University of Delaware Police

FOCUS: Customization, keen eye to detail, fit, fabric, quality, attention to unique body shapes.

SPECS: 60 officers dressed the same, gold thread from shoulder emblems/hash marks/chevrons, the same color as inlaid cloth stripe on navy pant leg.  14 oz. poly-wool serge, matching Class "A" military navy dress blouses, wide shoulders, narrow waist.  Room for Sam Brown-styled gun belt worn over shoulder.  General Pershing styled navy hat.  Shirts, (long and short sleeved), a lighter weight, lighter blue--11 oz. or 8 oz.   Sewn-in creases, double elbows, reinforced pockets, hidden zipper front.

HOT POINTS: Same design used for years.  A re-vamp, and more attention to details and customer needs, made all the difference.

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AWARD: Police Department Under 50 Officers

WHO:  Red the Uniform Tailor, with Bruce Klein

FOR:  Old Saybrook Police Department , Connecticut

FOCUS:  New Sheriff with new contemporary design.

SPECS: P&F blue poly-wool with lighter blue, knit ties with square bottoms,  Trooper cowboy hats.  Gold trim.

HOT POINTS:  "Image is everything in this business.  How a department looks and presents itself is what makes the difference between an agency that can solve a situation with speech, vs. getting into a brawl.  If the uniform is so classy that no one wants to mess it up, then the instigators will be less willing to engage, and the officers will be less willing to fight," said Bruce Klein.

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AWARD: Special Organization

WHO: Perfection Uniforms with Miranda Brock, and dealer Ronk's Uniform Center

FOR: West Virginia Sheriffs' Association

FOCUS: 65 counties wearing same uniforms; patrol cars painted to match fabric.  Grass roots with folks paying for uniforms, one department at a time.  Functionality, comfort, water repellency.  Teamwork with multiple agencies providing several different aspects of the uniform.

SPECS: 800 members from every department, with black for shirts and trouser stripe, grey for pants, to blend with rugged state terrain.  Better technology in manufacturing, stain resistant fabrics, gussets in crotches, expandable waistbands.

  HOT SPOTS:  Sentimentality of statewide public support for uniforms to boost officer morale.  "The recession has allowed so many people to have so many choices.  They could go anywhere, but they chose us," said Miranda Brock.  "The troopers chose uniforms that were non-invasive or frightening, yet reminded the public who was in charge."

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AWARD: County Sheriffs' Departments

WHO: Guidry's Uniforms, with Tom Meagher

FOR: Vermillion Parish Sheriff's Department

FOCUS:  Need for tight budget, morale boost, and practicality.  New sheriff recognized Louisiana floods of Katrina and Rita caused huge losses to deputies.  Ordered only from the best suppliers: Blauer, Fechheimer, Southeastern, Smith & Warren.  Customized stock garments.

SPECS: 450 sets made of polyester gabardine, American-made, non-fade, easy-care, less expensive, washable, and water resistant.  Royal pants with piggyback stripe in yellow-gold and silver, tan shirt with royal and yellow-gold, waterproof LAPD navy jacket with removable lining, Smokey Bear hat with royal trim: A totally new look in Louisiana.

HOT SPOTS:  Tremendous attention to customers' needs, both emotionally and practically.  "Service, trust, long-term relationships, and quality are the secrets to customers.  Our focus is on staying positive," said Tom, president of the family-owned business.

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 AWARD:  County Sheriffs' Departments

WHO: Nye's Uniforms, with Bill Nye

FOR: Roscommon County Sheriff's Department

FOCUS:  Good-looking dress uniform, custom-measured,  every detail attended to.  All accompanying uniform accessories provided.

SPECS: 30 dress blouses, shirts, and pants in tan and brown , with color changes and reversals for various departments.  Some wore hats, some didn't.  The fabric was a poly-wool 16.5 oz. elastique.

HOT SPOTS: For 75 years, Nye's has been providing public safety apparel.  It uses Red the Uniform Tailor, whom Nye feels is the best anywhere, going from off-the-shelf to custom garments.  Garments paid for by the town, department by department.  Nye's has been a NAUMD winner for the last four years.

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AWARD: State Agency

WHO:  Fechheimer, with Fred Heldman

FOR:  California Highway Patrol

FOCUS: Tightly specked, well fitted, high standards of discipline, inspections, and maintenance that projects authority.

SPECS:  6,800 uniforms in wools and wool blends, which are best for appearance, comfort, and durability.  Traditionally khaki colored with campaign hat and blue & gold trouser braid.  Dress uniform includes green jacket and royal blue tie.  Cold weather and utility uniforms are dark blue.

HOT SPOTS:   A Fechheimer customer for decades,  the California Highway Patrol sanctions several companies to produce its garments.  "There is no question," says Heldman, "that Fechheimer won the award due to experience and expertise in uniform manufacturing, and particularly high-end tailored garments."

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AWARD: Special Agency

WHO: Galls-Aramark, with Molly Roberts

FOR: U.S. Mint

FOCUS:  Over 200 separate items needed to complete contract.   Appearance, key to the award.  Everything matched perfectly.  Honor guards, operations teams, transporters of coinage, security officers: Perfect. No counterfeit money, no counterfeit uniforms = Trust.

SPECS: Different for various locations, climates, duties.  Cool Max and Under Armor for comfort, a professional, clean look.  Navy blue, no striping.  Hats varied with function. Outerwear dependent on climate.  All badge and patch applications done at Galls'.  Goods is poly-wool, one weight for everything.  Durable, colorfast. 

HOT SPOTS: "The Mint prides itself on classy, traditional looks with new innovations as they are developed," reflected Molly.  "This is the second win for Galls and the Mint."

*

AWARD: Canadian Safety Department

WHO: R. Nicholl's Distributing, Inc., with Brian O'Connor

FOR: Royal Newfoundland Constabulary (Police Department)

FOCUS: Tremendous attention to detail and comfort, environment, and price.

SPECS: 280 members with 1,120 uniform sets, made by Perfection Uniforms.  Fabrics are recycled pop-bottles and polyester.  Navy with royal braid.  Cargo- styled pants, standard (forager) police-cap, and outer body armor.  Crotch gussets, expandable waistbands, wicking inside the garments, moisture repellency outside.  Shirts stretch under arms.  All uniforms the same, other than ranking.

HOT SPOTS:  "The uniform is basically the same as it was in the past, but new attention to detail is what convinced the Constabulary that we were right for them," says Brian.  "We were big enough to handle the order, we were new, they liked our product, and they liked Nicholl's."

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AWARD: Healthcare

WHO: Cintas Corporation with Brian Garry, Jamie Overbey, Andi Vance

FOR: Florida Hospital Cardiovascular Institute

FOCUS: Apparel program for five different departments within the Florida Hospital Cardiovascular Institute.

SPECS: Uniforms trimmed with a custom heart-shaped design along with Florida Hospital logo to honor focus of the renowned organization.

HOT SPOTS: "This prestigious award truly reflects the integrity of our apparel program," said Danielle Johnson, Assistant Vice President of the Hospital.  "This facility is committed to quality care, so we wanted a uniform program that reflected our brand, while enhancing the job functions of each employee.  By working with key personnel throughout the process, Cintas helped us to develop a program that met everyone's needs."

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AWARD: Hotel, Single Unit, United States

WHO: Cintas Corporation with Brian Garry, Jamie Overbey, Andi Vance

FOR: The Pierre Hotel

FOCUS: Luxury apparel program balancing the high-class nature of the age-old establishment, with the durability and comfort necessary for work. 

SPECS:  Traditional European styling that combined form and function enhancing guest experiences and celebrating hotel's $100 million renovation.

HOT SPOTS: "Cintas developed a luxury collection that echoes our brand and the environment in which our employees serve," said Heikio Kuenstle, General Manager of The Pierre Hotel.  "We wanted to set the standard for outstanding hospitality, and an award-winning uniform program further sets us apart from the competition."

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 AWARD: Restaurants, Fast Food

WHO: Cintas Corporation with Brian Garry, Jamie Overbey, Andi Vance

FOR: The Panda Express

FOCUS: Importance of showcasing top-of-the-line apparel for back of house staff; the fast food restaurant operates with an exposed kitchen.

SPECS: Asian-inspired uniforms include black complementary chef and cook tunics, each with red accents and iconic Panda Express logo on right arm and back.  Chef version is differentiated by Chinese character trim.  Traditional skull cap was updated and re-thought to include mesh panels and adjustable straps.  Both uniforms with four-way reversible aprons.

HOT-SPOTS: "Panda's mission is to deliver exceptional Asian dining experiences to our guests during every visit.  When guests enter a Panda Express, we want to wow all five senses and showcase the culinary skills of our chefs preparing delicious Asian cuisine with fresh ingredients," said Nader Garschi, Executive Director of Concept Innovation at Panda Express. "Cintas was a great partner in executing that goal by creating a cultural-connector uniform that properly reflected the higher quality of the Panda Express brand."

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AWARD: Cruise Lines

WHO: Cintas Corporation with Brian Garry, Jamie Overbey, Andi Vance

FOR: Royal Caribbean of the Seas

FOCUS: Providing vacationers opportunities based on their personal styles preferences, or moods. 

SPECS: Day, evening, and formal wear garments, enhancing new "Neighborhoods" concept:  Blue theme for day, black charcoal for night.  Formal wear difficult to maintain when dry-cleaning services not available; however custom poly-wool blends both easy to care for and durable.

HOT SPOTS:  "These awards are a testament to the way our designers and merchandising team are able to work with our customers and create functional fashions that match any aesthetic," said Andi Vance.

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AWARD: Transportation

WHO: Apparel Solutions, with Ron Steel

FOR:  Hawaiian Airlines

FOCUS: 80th birthday for the constantly on-time airlines that completely revamped planes, ticket counters, and uniforms.   Easy online-ordering for each employee's job description and garment needs.  Meticulous attention to detail.  Design styles complement brand--Asian. 

SPECS: 2,300 uniforms.  For ticket counters and attendants: Colors muted with teals & azures in blouse and shirt prints, solid greys for elegant blazers and skirts.  HMS fabric, 8.5 oz., soft hand, easy care.  Baggage handlers in Day-Glo orange T-shirts.

HOT-SPOTS:  Buttonless blazers have mandarin collars; neither shirts, blouses, nor blazers have pockets; all buttons either monochromatic or non-existent.  Minimalist, simple.

*

AWARD: Retail Establishment

WHO: Lion Uniform Group, a G&K Services Company, with Jeanna Peifer

FOR: ampm Convenience Stores (Partnered with Arco and BP)

FOCUS: Revamped, transposed into workable uniforms that were comfortable, functional, easy to launder, reasonably priced.  Provided eye-catching memory for customer.

SPECS:  10,000 uniforms for long and short-sleeved shirts, male and female stylings, outerwear, and aprons.  Pants: employee-provided.  Astute design team created garments, and coordinating print; pattern done with sublimation color process, accenting stores' inventories: Reflects store motto, "Too much good stuff."

HOT SPOTS: Diversity as company morphs from one focus to another.  Identity with branding of corporation is key factor as teamwork plays huge part.

*

AWARD: Special Recognition

WHO: Lion Uniform Group, a G&K Services Company, with Jeanna Peifer

FOR: Class V

FOCUS: Coterie designer, Richard Tyler, produced high-end, tailored group of garments.  Elegant, classy, eye-catching in 138 countries.  Friendly, employee approachable, comfortable.

SPECS:  25-50 employees in each location.  14 different colors to accent white blouses and shirts, black blazers, skirts or slacks, and outerwear.  Linings, collars, scarves, accessories, jewelry.  Elegant with subtle but definite weave and presence of religious crosses.

HOT SPOTS: Customer at once drawn into theme, engaged by garments.

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AWARD: Restaurants, Multi-Unit

WHO: Superior Uniform Group, with Janice Henry, Viv Smith, and Sandy Pegler

FOR: Ruby's Diner

FOCUS: Theme is paramount; the visual experience.  Complete dedication to customer preference.

SPECS: 1940's red and white: Gals in white half aprons, red and white striped outfits, waitress headbands; fellows in black pants, slim-Jim ties, white broadcloth shirts and soda-jerk hats.  Everything matches.

HOT-SPOTS: "This is a perfect example of a manufacturer giving the customer exactly what he wants.  It's about customer attention, and having a wonderful time.  How lucky we are to have such a great in-house design department!" expressed Janice.

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AWARD: Hotels, Multi-Unit

WHO: Superior Uniform Group, with Janice Henry, Viv Smith, and Sandy Pegler

FOR: The Hilton Corporate

FOCUS: Global involvement with environment, ecosystems, and going "green."  Details, design, enhancing interior decor.

SPECS: Color palette: Chocolate, bark, charcoal with black.  Neutrals and earth tones, only.  Color-forecasting and design.  Pants, skirts, blazers, in stunning blues; silver& bronze--solids and a stripe--in blouses and shirts.  Eco-friendly fabrics: recycled polyester, standard polyester, Lycra.  Washable, stretch elbows, moisture wicking backs, soft hand, luxurious feel.  Two Superior style-groups involved: Select & Signature.

HOT SPOTS:  Younger employees want trendy designs with ecology and comfort in mind.  Cerebral experience, taking into account the edifice, purpose of the uniforms, and high fashion allowing uniforms to be worn on the street.

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AWARD: Hotel, Single Unit, Canadian

WHO: Omega Uniform Systems (formerly Omega Frontline), with Margaret Ramsdale

FOR: The Pan Pacific Hotel Vancouver

FOCUS: Doormen's uniforms coordinated with glass and steel building, lake, mist, mountains, and grey environment.  Each employee with online web account for ordering, garments drop-shipping to front door. 

SPECS: Four to six doormen; 24 uniforms overall. Monochromatic look of blacks, charcoals, and greys.  Clean design, matching simplicity of structure.  Winter uniforms charcoal with light grey accents; summer, lighter weight in lighter grey with charcoal accents.  Pewter buttons, silver striping in matte finish.

HOT SPOTS: "The Pan Pacific uniforms are the result of taking traditional styling and interpreting it in a contemporary way," smiled Margaret.  "Everything is neutral, and nothing is shiny.  Low contrast, minimalist, low key.  The customer was thrilled with the aesthetics, and the doormen loved the functionality as well as the style." 

* 

AWARD: Service Apparel

WHO: Brookhurst, Inc., with Elena Morgan

FOR: Mary Kay, Inc. and its Red Jacket Program

FOCUS:  High fashion, fitting all figures and age types.  Looking fabulous to fit the image of cosmetic giant.

SPECS: 13,000 people involved.  Multiple specs, depending on year of design, and level of achievement within Mary Kay.  Fabrics vary.  This year, mélange worsted wool fabric with silk piping, in black.  Skirts available in two styles, five lengths.  Jackets available in three styles, three lengths.  Additional accessories, prints, sweaters, and tops available.

HOT-SPOTS:  Durable,  comfortable, able to be worn year-round throughout the world.  Integrity of garment and good looks for the lifetime of the program, is a must.

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AWARD: Casino

WHO: Unisync Group, LTD, with Ryan Beliveau

FOR: Niagara Fallsview Casino Resort

FOCUS: Beautiful look and fit, comfort, type of garment, rush order, custom measuring.

SPECS: 150 uniforms, black cocktail.  Durable, body-hugging, polyester/spandex-jersey blend, machine washable.

HOT SPOTS:  "At Unisync, we have some of the best people in the industry who can bring an image to reality, " said Ryan Beliveau."  "In addition to developing and manufacturing these highly customized garments and uniforms, we have a long history with high-end garments.  Total Program Management differentiates us from other companies.  Our 100,000 sq. feet distribution center says it all."

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AWARD: Arena or Sports Facility

WHO: Walt Disney World, with Jodie White and Pam Flint

FOR: ESPN (Entertainment Sports Programming Network) Wide World of Sports

FOCUS: Created a costume that reflects branding of new partnership.  Representing all sports.  A "today" look that cast members feel good about when wearing garments.  Comfortable, easily sized.

SPECS: 700 cast members; 8,500 costumes.  85% wear ESPN red polos with black pants or shorts, red fleece jackets or windbreakers; 15% in same outfit with light grey, instead.  Baseball caps.  Champion stretch athletic fabrics, wicking for moisture, safety reflective tape, logos everywhere .  

HOT SPOTS: Cast having a very good time and feeling good about themselves.

* 

AWARD: Restaurant, Fine Dining

WHO: Walt Disney World, with Jodie White and Pam Flint

FOR: Sanaa, South African motif set in Animal Kingdom Resort Lodge

FOCUS: Authenticity of design, decor, environmental sensitivity, cultural awareness.  Functionality, surprising guests, keeping casts happy.  Full size-range kept in stock.

SPECS: Tremendous research of fabrics and styles. 40 greeters: Men in shirts (dashikis) and slacks, with small pillbox hats (kufis); women in tightly flared-out skirts and matching tops.  250 wait staff: Slacks with colorful shirts and vests.  Coordinated two groups of costumes.  Spice, electric blue, rust, brown, beige, or gold, orange, yellow, and red.   Poly-cotton dyed and printed to look like thick twine/kuba cloth.

HOT SPOTS: "We are so proud of what we produce here, and it's nice to have a chance to brag about our product," laughed Jodi White.  "We are the industry leaders in the type of work we do, and it's nice to be recognized for it."