A Colorful Bit of History...Pantone Colors: Essay for Made to Measure Magazine

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For the last 40+ years, the internationally recognized Pantone Matching System (PMS) is what has laid out choices of color for all visual aspects of our world: Cars and fabrics, cosmetics and hair care, house paints and carpeting, china and crockery, plastics and appliances, crayons and computer design graphics, and more.  Colorwise, today’s finished products are determined by Pantone, Inc., and interestingly, not the other way around.  Home Depot orange, UPS brown, Tiffany blue, Barbie pink: It is the work of genius.

There are shades of light and dark by adding black and white; tints of colors such as azure, navy, royal, or teal blues; and the various hues such as basic red, blue, yellow, orange, brown, and so forth.  There are metallics, shineys, and flats or bisques—no different than lame’s, satins, and cottons or woolens. 

Every one of the hundreds of Pantone colors is different, and yet similarities abound.  Colors can appear with an entirely different presentation on fabric than on a paper calling card or the sign painted on a company truck.   Sometimes, it’s very difficult to convince a customer that the color he sees in a magazine may be closely duplicated but not exactly, when attempting to transfer ink to cloth, or a printed logo to embroidery thread.  Substances grab dyes differently.  PMS colors help us as manufacturers and sellers of uniforms to convince our shoppers that there is an official bottom line for color.

Based in Carlstadt, New Jersey, Pantone is run by Lawrence Herbert and his daughter, Lisa.   Herbert, whose great love is color, began working for the printing company in 1956, hoping to become a physician one day, while printing color cards for cosmetic companies in the meantime.   However, with his backgrounds in chemistry and biology, he began to perfect various recipes for colors with scientific precision, and eventually expanded his knowledge to deal with the full spectrum.  Ultimately, he bought the printing operations portion of the company, which he finally incorporated into his own firm in 1963. 

Until that time, every printer had his own palette of colors, but none was synchronized with another; even within the same printing house, the colors were often skewed or off-tone from one run to the next.  What Herbert did was profound: He standardized color.  He gave every available shade, tint, and hue a different number and recipe (and sometimes a name) that cannot be varied.  He went to 21 printing companies with his recipes, hoping to convince them that this kind of color regulation would be an asset.  They went for it, and the rest, as they say, is “his-story.”  

Today, there are approximately 1,800 different blends from which one can choose.  When a company wants a particular shade that isn’t a part of the Pantone system, then Pantone will invent it.  If it is a patented, corporate color, then only that particular company has access to it.  If it is less protected, then there is public access.

New colors are constantly being created.  In fact, many industries circle the Pantone crystal ball as early as 18 months in advance in order to find out what the color wizards are up to.  In so doing, there is a cooperative and coordinate multi-industry effort to utilize the latest Pantone offerings: Will it be a brown fall, or a pink spring, a black and red winter, a marigold summer?  If you think fashion or automobile manufacturers know, think again.  It is Pantone.  The environmentalists did not come up with kiwi and lime green for last season’s spring shirts.  Nope.  It was Pantone.

When you open your latest catalogues, or design your new garments for the season, you are specking out the available PMS colors that were developed months in advance.  If you show the current items from your favorite vendor, whether it be seasonal color changes, or newly mixed shades, it’s all from the Pantone color spectrum.   Should you call a thread manufacturer or fabric converter, an embroiderer or screen printer, a button or zipper distributor, you are utilizing Pantone.

To the extent that the uniform industry is more conservative than some, one might think that fewer colors would be used.  On the other hand, because uniforms now include such an enormous array of choices, this is less and less the case.  What has to be called “gigglebox fun,” is that Pantone also delights in pairing colors, thereby putting particular color combinations in the spotlight as readily as it does single tints and shades: Navy and pink; black and khaki; grey and red—such mixes are whole units unto themselves.

Sets of the PMS color cards—not unlike the early cosmetic cards that Mr. Herbert first created—are not only available as basic all-purpose chips, but there are card sets used solely for the textile industry, as well.  The only problem with selling a customer off of these cards is that there is usually a 3,000-5,000 yard minimum to have fabric custom dyed.  Going offshore for a lower minimum, even without customs and freight, is not a lot less.

The next time your customer comes in with a bottle of suntan lotion and tells you that he wants you to match the lettering on the side of the bottle to a razzle dazzle fabric with a keen sheen, as a must for his singing group’s new uniform shirts, think PMS.  Use it with him, and then forward the color number to your supplier, who also should have the cards.  Hopefully, this will save you hours and hours of researching and postage for sample swatches, and earn you a handsome account at the same time.

School Uniforms: Making The Grade Year-Round: Uniforms Magazine

Between the end of July and the beginning of September, the school uniform business is in full swing.  Stock is literally flying off the shelves.  But what happens to dealers and distributors the rest of the time?  It’s not so easy.  Yet, the same venerable companies thrive year after year, managing just fine.  Here are some of their secrets for success during the ten off-months:

Marketing—In today’s world, the Internet comes first.  Be sure that your company can be Googled, identified with a first class website, and can support online ordering for fast easy-access service, 24/7.  Make sure that freight and payment terms are straightforward, included, and safe, and that your images are present and attractive to the shopper’s eye—kids as well as adults.  Check out www.UniformsBySharon.com to see a perfect example. 

Advertisements go everywhere from the schools, themselves, to the phone book, bulletin boards, and mailers for parents.  Coupons?  You bet.  Use the media including radio, TV, computer ads, links, and text messaging; billboards, and even bumper stickers keep your easy-to-remember company name in the consumer’s mind.  Focus on particular selling points or specialty items that only you carry. 

  

Call on the schools, personally, and make repeated visits.  Become friendly with the staff, and don’t hesitate to take the store to them via samples, catalogues, and brochures.  All of this comes into play during those long silent months when business slows.

Make your store accessible.  Multiple retail outlets are optimum, and hopefully in safe neighborhood shopping areas or places that are geographically tempting for many nearby schools.  Partner with other similarly minded business concerns such as school/office supply companies or bookstores, and make agreements to support one another in terms of promoting merchandise.  You want to be a household word.

Diversification—We tend to think of school uniforms as outfits for K-12.  If a uniform company is going to survive for a period of more than two months a year, consider the broader spectrum.   Many stores today include all kinds of kids’ wear.  Cookie’s in New York, for example, handles multiple types of children’s items from toys, baby things, and children’s furniture, to mainstream kids’ clothing, and school uniforms.

“Oh, if we didn’t have a lot more than just the uniforms, it would be terrible,” Al Falack of Cookie’s states plainly.  There’s a lot to choose from, keeping business buzzing for the entire twelve month cycle.

Also, we tend to think of school uniforms as being only about kids.  There are cooking schools, nursing schools, medical schools, carpentry and trade schools, to name a few.  A school uniform store or manufacturer can just as easily branch out into these areas as not.   Look at Dickies that makes uniforms for multiple careers, and includes its children’s line, too.  These other school types have classes running constantly, plus graduated professionals who are continually needing replacement garments: Scrubs, labcoats, industrial shirts, pants, and so on.

Land’s End manufactures men’s and women’s clothing, children’s wear and accessories, in addition to its school uniforms.  Dennis Uniforms manufactures labcoats, even though its focus is the school market.  The more investment in various garments, the larger the overhead and expense, but the alternative is there are more garments to help keep the industry and the dealerships going through the winter and spring months. 

“Remember that department and big-box stores only sell school apparel during the height of the season; uniform stores stock their merchandise year-round,” emphasizes Sharon Brushett of Uniforms By Sharon.  In agreement, Sheila Farber of Denver Dennis Uniforms reiterates, “Someone always wants a fresh pair of pants, or there’s a new student who needs outfitting.  We manage to keep busy.”

Gimmicks—Sales work wonders.  January sales, June sales: Remind the folks that you’re still around, and that you’re giving them a chance to get the jump on the upcoming season.  In spite of the Fall-only big business, things happen at Winter semester, too.  Check out school schedules very carefully. 

“We present our customers with “advantage” or “bakers’ dozen” cards,” says Andrew Dunbar of Dennis Uniforms.  “We at Dennis give punch cards that offer $10 off with a purchase of $150 or more during on-season shopping, and $20 off for off-season purchases.”

Add an extra pair of socks with an outfit, a hair bow, or a fun pair of “undies.”  Include or offer school identity, such as embroidery of a school logo, screen printing of a favorite wrestling character, or a matching backpack for purchases over $200.  Maybe, some gift certificates to a fast-food store tucked inside a pocket would be just the ticket.  

“The littler kids like to pick out a lunchbox or some extra small thing to go with the uniforms,” observes Al Falack. Do whatever it takes to bring the folks into the shop, keep them buying, and keep them coming back.

One of the best ideas is the Mattel American Girl dolls that have matching uniforms in the appropriate plaids, and that can be purchased through Dennis Uniforms: The Peter Pan blouse, a hair bow, and the street length jumper on your favorite character.  How perfect for a young lady to be able to see herself and her twin doll in fashionable school clothes!

Merchandising—When doing the buying for school uniform items, shop the competition, find unique fashions in multiple sizes, and include "plus" sizes.  Carry all colors, the several styles approved by the schools, and even those that aren’t, in order to draw the attention of kids or parents who want something special.   If you skimp, the customers will go elsewhere.

Depending on the demography of the area, if there are conservative or parochial schools, skirt lengths can matter: As Sharon Brushett says, “Skorts are a definite trend setter.”  Yet, the longer below-the-knee length is often mandated for a traditional look.  Cookie’s has its own manufacturing facility and features apparel for particular religious groups, as well as stocking standard school clothing that is ready-to-wear.  “Sometimes, we have whole schools where every girl has to have a 27” skirt hem,” marvels Al Falack.

Check out what it is that your area schools are needing as well as wanting.  Don’t exclude important population components.  If you have schools that need to meet requirements for specific ethnic garb, look into this; there are small custom manufacturers around the country that make these specialized uniforms. 

Customer Service—Finally, have the best customer service that you can provide.  To keep overhead low, use fewer people during most of the year, and add another five or six employees during the height of the season.  Don’t be shy about cutting help and your hours when they’re not necessary. 

“We have limited hours during the off-months,” advises Sheila Farber.  There’s no need to pay overhead for a building that isn’t used, or for help that isn’t producing.  Think practically and pragmatically.  Your customers will adapt.

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“Hot Stuff”

Girls will be girls—that means craving doo-dads for their hairstyles.  Barrettes, headbands, bows, scrunchies: They come in different solid colors, or the plastic is designed to have inlaid plaids with extending ribbons that match the garments.  It doesn’t matter how old a woman is; for her to be well-dressed is about head to toe, and that includes items for the hair.

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Outerwear is huge.  There are hooded duck jackets, fleece windbreakers, Ike bomber jackets, quilted vests, raincoats, and of course, hoodies.  Screen printing and embroidery are available to enhance any item; both guys and gals are now dressed for the seasons inside and out, in the best fashion.  All of these items come in school colors, and may include added racing stripes across the shoulders, around the cuffs and collars, or down the front.

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Fabrics are changing as organics are entering the picture.  From pre-school up, mothers are especially conscious of “going green,” with garments that are made from environmentally sensitive, custom-dyed yarns.  (Watch your costs here though, as organics are more expensive.)  In contrast, several manufacturers are adding Lycra to their slacks so that girls can have tighter fitting as well as more comfortable pants.

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Styles are morphing away from the dressier girls’ jumpers with blouses, and boys’ pants with dress shirts; instead, it’s items such as capris, and hip-huggers with flared bottoms for girls; cargo pants and bicycle shorts for the boys.  Polo shirts are taking over the traditional shirts and blouses; solids are replacing plaids.  The reasons are not only about taste, but about economy, which is beginning to play a larger factor in uniform choices. 

Many items have become much more casual.  Land’s End has added more length to its turtlenecks so that they may be worn untucked; T-shirts are part of the uniform scene; backpacks, lunchboxes, boots and shoes, colored socks in multiple lengths with plaid trim, and even underwear are all becoming items for the school uniform ensemble. 

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Survival Skills In A Tough Economy: UniformMarketNews.com

(Note: This article was never published, nor was I paid for it, as Uniform Markets' felt the article was too negative.  In truth, it was perfectly correct and accurate.)

If you're reading this and you're like most of us, you're probably saying your prayers at night, and struggling plenty by day: The uniform industry, like many of those in today's world, is feeling heat from the huge economic meltdown.  Unlike jobs in technology, healthcare, the military, maintenance, or educational sectors, which are considered sacrosanct and necessary, the entire American market is in jeopardy; the apparel and uniform sectors are hanging by a thread.  Only those with the cleverest of survival plans, abilities to be flexible and roll with the punches will survive the shakedown.

If one goes online, looks in the Yellow Pages, or watches the ads in the newspapers, it will become readily apparent that under the heading of "Uniforms," there are not a lot of choices available.  Part of that is because not everyone wears a uniform and it’s a smaller niche industry; the other reason is that there just aren't that many of us around any more.  Tip: Consider partnering with a larger company.

Chances are that if you go out to dinner, you'll find your servers in T-shirts, polo shirts, or white dress shirts—basic and no frills.  They will all have been made off-shore.  If they need a cover-up, it's quite possibly an apron—also less expensive if purchased from an off-shore company that manufactures by the thousands.   If you check pants, it's the same: Off-shore.  It doesn't matter whether they're industrial, chefwear, casual or dress.  For the most part, it's off-shore manufactured slacks that are being worn. Tip: Sell off-shore merchandise as well as "Made in the U.S.A."

What is also noticeable is that fewer and fewer establishments are purchasing uniforms at all.  Employees are asked to purchase their own garments within certain guidelines.  Uniforms are no longer desired, save a cover-up to protect an employee's street-clothes, if even that.  While the littler mom-n'-pop shops are cutting out uniforms altogether, even the bigger companies are honing down.   Tip: Think aprons and vests.

Larger establishments are leaving the rental business as a means of handling their uniforms, and returning to the concept of purchasing the garments while letting the employees launder their own.  One large Sheraton hotel in Colorado is reported to have cut its uniform costs by $100,000 per year, as a result of returning to purchasing their garments instead of renting them.  Tip: If you're a renter, offer the alternative of buying.

Embroidery and silk-screening are the good news and the bad news in the uniform business.  One can look at them as the ribbon around the uniform package—good looking identity by offering a logo on low-cost garments, rather than higher priced uniforms that offer the identity by themselves.  Or, one can do away with the identity imprints as being too costly, and merely use a style, a color, or an accessory such as a hat, scarf or tie—one less aspect again on which to spend extra dollars.  Tip: Be familiar with alternative accessories.

As businesses go out of business, as corporations become more casual, as mergers rid themselves of duplication, as salaries and budgets become less instead of more, the question of how the uniform will survive, is a very real one.  It used to be, of course, that mostly service people wore them.  It also used to be that there were very few choices of garments available, and styles, colors, and fabrics from which to choose were limited.  A waitress looked like a waitress, a chef looked like a chef, a nurse looked like a nurse, and a doctor looked like a doctor.  Today, there are literally big-box stores for medical and kitchen wear.  It will be interesting to see how they do as time goes forward. Tip: Think about adding garments for the service industry in your inventory.

The entire state of California expects to go under in a couple of months, the real estate and banking industries are dying on the vine, and the automobile industry is in the soup.  If they go under, the ripple effect in terms of the economy will stagger businesses everywhere.  What does this forecast about uniforms—an added burden on company budgets?   Can't bank personnel just wear their own clothes?  Can't eateries?  Do liquor stores and mall personnel, or department stores really need an entire ensemble, when a single article will do just fine?  Tip: Think inexpensive, practical, and clever.  

Several of the manufacturers and retailers here in the United States are out of business.  Others are barely managing, as one owner of a factory that's been in business for over a century, said the other day.  "Production is down to three days a week," she confessed.  "People are making do, and no one wants to buy.”  

A customer who had long bought a particular product for his Shrine accessories is now ready to change the product and purchase Canadian, NAFTA and customs be hanged.  "It's half the price," he defended.  "Even though the quality isn't nearly as good as American, we can't afford the real McCoy any longer."  Tip: Offer alternatives.  Think outside the box.  Never say "never."

The trick of it, if there’s any "trick" at all, is to survive however one can. 

If it means pounding the pavement, cold calling, follow-up calls, using the Internet, having flyers or sandwich boards on the street, do it. If working out of your home, shortening your hours, cutting your personnel, cuts down on the overhead, do it.  If you need to streamline your telephones and technology in order to save dollars per month, do it.  Tip: Advertise like crazy and think do-it-yourself tactics.

Whatever it takes, either commit yourself to the long haul, or think about getting out.   Be careful not to drive your business, your credit, and your capital into the ground on a last-ditch hope that you might make it.  Last but not least, be sure you get a minimum payment of 50% up front, and the balance pre-paid before delivery.  Even the best customers these days are huge risks.  The bigger the customer, the greater the loss for you if he defaults.

Zehnder's of Frankenmuth: Tradition and Common Sense: Interview with Made to Measure Magazine

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Spending time at Zehnder’s is like walking into a Hallmark card: There is no other way to explain it.  We are talking about America’s largest family restaurant, and second largest independently owned.  It also sports a

152-room hotel with a 20,000 square foot video arcade, a championship

18-hole golf course and country-club, a four-story 30,000 square foot water park, and a good-sized retail food/bakery/boutique outlet.  This single campus is located in Frankenmuth, Michigan, in the Saginaw Valley between the cities of Flint and Saginaw, northwest of Detroit.

Zehnder’s was originally a hotel that was built in 1856, used as a stop-over for farmers who wanted a friendly fried chicken meal, hay and water for their horses, and a place to bed down; all for the nifty fare of $.75 a night.  It passed from owner to owner over the years, and was eventually purchased by William and Emilie Zehnder in 1927, who eliminated the hotel, and turned it into a restaurant, instead.  Zehnder’s opened on Mother’s Day, 1928, (still their biggest holiday).  They completely remodeled the place, and being German Lutheran immigrants who recognized their great fortune to have been Americans, decided that the new establishment would resemble the Colonial styled residence of Mt. Vernon, President George Washington’s pastoral home in Virginia.  It looks much the same, today.

As with most family concerns, William ran the hotel, and Emilie cooked the food—for the most part, her recipes are still used. They had eight children, and in one way or another, every son or daughter was put to work to keep the family business alive.  The brothers and sisters remained close as relatives, as well as being smart, savvy business colleagues. 

During the Depression, they struggled desperately, and report that their lowest day was in the 1930’s, when they sold a single seven-cent Speckled Sport cigar.  That’s a far cry from today’s receipts, with the multiple dining rooms serving as many as 5,916 guests in one day; at approximately $20 a person, that’s good business! 

The Saginaw Valley community came about in 1845, when an influx of the German immigrants migrated to the area.  What was then about 3,000 folks, grew to approximately 5,000, and it hasn’t changed much over the last 163 years.  The growth of the automotive industry as a result of the presence of an interstate in the ‘50’s, caused heavier population and changes in demography.  However, the surroundings of Frankenmuth are basically farming community and small towns where everybody knows everybody, and their ways of thinking.  The church unites one another with family values that are very traditional and conservative in perspective, thriving in the midst of a closely knit and caring group of people.  The old-fashioned tried and true Protestant Ethic—hard work—is the core for everyone, every day.  Zehnder’s is a paradigm.

Edwin, son of William, eventually took over Zehnder’s, itself.  However, don’t forget that one sister ran the gift shop, a brother was the postmaster of the town, one a minister with a son who is now the head chef of the restaurant, one a professor of hospitality management, and Uncle

William, Jr., who ran the Austrian restaurant across the street.  Now, in the third generation of ownership, (all of whom are in their 50’s,) Edwin’s four children run Zehnder’s; they work together and they vacation together, celebrating the holidays on their own time before their customers’, so dedicated are their lives to family and opportunity.  “We are grateful to have what we do,” says Susan Zehnder, vice president of Human Resources.  “We think of ourselves as being very fortunate.” 

Everyone cooks, serves, bakes, you-name-it.  And the best part?  Even the farmers in the surrounding area supply the chickens, the vegetables, and grain for the breads.  For the purposes of dietary accommodations for the customers, as well as serving fresh homegrown items, very little processed food is served.  “The secret,” confesses Susan, “comes from Dad.  He always said that no one works for him—everyone works with him.”

There are over 700 employees affiliated with the Zehnder’s corporation, some workers marking 35 or 50 year anniversaries.  Every aspect is overseen and neatly divided by job description in tune with specific areas of activity.  The basic philosophy of uniforms, the same as with the restaurant, is the simple, down-to-earth system that has kept the company running for so many years.  “Guests, like everyone else, judge a book by its cover,” philosophizes Susan, in Trumanesque plainness.  The garments are mostly utilitarian with an eye for cost and beyond that, they are quite straightforward. 

The employees themselves, coming from the surrounding rural areas are quite like-minded, so that the down-home atmosphere of the restaurant spills over from them, as well.  The most that’s spent on want-ads for hiring new people is $600 per year.  Everyone else is either family or a referral.  Folks don’t fight because there’s little to fight about; they’re too busy working to earn a day’s living, rather than frittering away time with arguments.  Trust runs high, and friends respect friends.  The garments that they wear are reflective of themselves, and they are practical for job service.    

“Our company goal is that everyone leaves satisfied,” reports Susan.  “Customer service is number one.  We want to be the number one choice for our guests, our employees, as leaders in our local community, region, state, and nationally, where we work very hard to be good citizens.” 

There are four areas for uniform wear: The restaurant, itself, which capitalizes on its Williamsburg styled Colonial architecture, surroundings, costumes, and fried chicken dinners with all the fixin’s; the retail outlet that merchandises homemade bakery goods, foods, and a few doo-dads; the lodge with the adjoining water park; and the golf course with its club house.  It’s all at once different, and yet the same.  Here’s how:

The restaurant is really the only place where there are unique costumes.  The design, instituted in the 1960’s, is very simple, and with low-key colors in brown’s and beiges with black and white accents.  There are the servers’ ankle length plaid Colonial dresses with white eyelet lace pinafore aprons.  Mop caps and puffed sleeves with pleats and velvet ribbons accentuate.  The fellows wear large white peasant shirts and black knickers.  Hostesses dress in black street length dresses with impressive eyelet pinafore collars.  The bartenders wear vests, slacks, and ties.  When it comes to “fancy wear,” that’s it for the entire expanse of property.  Everything else is strictly comfort, practicality, and job-description oriented.

The retail area is outfitted in black cobbler aprons.  Period.  No muss, no fuss.  They’re worn over an employee’s basic dress, and serve to identify and to keep the individual clean. 

Once a year, an employee is given a free uniform from Zehnder’s, itself.  If an employee wants additional garments, he must purchase them.  This is throughout the establishment. 

The hotel is about khaki pants and polo shirts.  Certainly, there are white chef coats for the kitchens, and black or black & white checkered chef pants, which are everywhere on campus.  But the hotel as well as the golf club, maintenance, and everyone else, is dressed in the khaki pants and polo shirts.  If the heath department requires a hat, then it’s a black baseball cap.

The polos are color-coded by job description: E.G., royal for Splash Village water park dining room; red for the water park, itself; white for the front desk and professional staff; burgundy for the maintenance people, etc.  Susan chooses the colors, and with her assistant and various managers of particular areas, the uniforms are kept in perfect condition.

The state of Michigan mandates that everyone must be fitted into a uniform, no matter individual needs, so certain items in the Zehnder’s line have to be custom-made to accommodate people who are particularly large or small.  “Weight is a protected class,” Susan cites, “so ‘buying off the rack’ is impossible.”  She tries to work with as few vendors as possible to narrow the multiple efforts for fitting and purchasing uniforms.  Before each uniform article is purchased, the item is tested by employees for fabric, durability, quality, laundry, stain-resistance, comfort, and employee likeability.  Susan is the bottom line when it comes to selection, but employees always have a say in what they wear.

Enough stock is kept on hand for new hires or unexpected damages.  To be sure, each employee is expected to take care of his own uniform.  There are spreadsheets that record each employee and what is given out at time of hire and orientation.  They either own the garments or they’re given out.  The uniform stock room depends on the time of year, in terms of gauging how many garments are needed for the slower months vs. the more active ones.  Also, different areas are recorded separately: For instance, the golf season may require a varying level of in stock apparel vs. the dining rooms, when it comes to seasonal needs.

Including part-timers, there are several thousand sets of uniforms that are in use on a regular basis, as most workers have at least three sets of garments.  Tailors in the surrounding area are recommended, but Zehnder’s, itself, does not have its own alteration department.  When a new employee is taken on, he ventures into the fitting room and is supervised by his area manager who makes sure that he has the correct items and is appropriately and attractively attired.

There is very little, if any, desire to re-vamp the uniform program.  “If it isn’t broke, don’t fix it” is the motto.  “We consider freshening things up a bit, from year to year, but that’s it,” says Susan.  “We’re happy.  People know who we are.  Our uniforms identify us in a way that’s easy.  If we put our uniforms only on a billboard, we wouldn’t even have to use our name, because our guests know us when they see us.”

The employees are shown how to iron, how to sew on their buttons or fix a tear, and how to clean their own garments.  Sloppiness is not allowed.  One has to look as good as possible.   If a worker arrives in a uniform that is less than “bandbox,” then he is sent home without pay.  If a garment is dirty or torn, there is no pay for the time spent repairing it on the job.  Tattoos, appropriate undergarments, jewelry, and shoes, are all discussed:  Expectations are clearly defined.   

Understanding the basic philosophy of Zehnder’s of Frankenmuth may appear to be somewhat old-fashioned or even odd in today’s anything-goes world.  But the other side of it is, how many can say—particularly in this day and age—that they’ve survived 82 years, remodeled and grown, including multiple wars, a depression, recessions, strikes, and plain hard times?  Truth be known, Zehnder’s, in its down-home, no frills, brass tacks simplicity, is just plain heart-warming.  It’s about American success, and the basic values that this country was made of.  Think about it, go there, try it.  And smile. 

   

Gripflex Corporation: A Half Century of Elegance & Innovation: UniformMarketNews.Com

In 1954, 46 year old William Lowney had an idea that possessed him.  It began in his four-car Philadelphia garage as he and his wife, Annette, patented a gizmo called a boot band.  This little braided band, with its splash of olive drab color, fit around the tops of military boots and kept pants tucked tightly inside the footwear; they at once “gripped” the top of the boot but “flexed” when an individual stepped: Hence, the Gripflex Corporation was born. 

Lowney initially began his journey of selling his product from town to town along the eastern seaboard, potential customer to potential customer, until his gadget took hold.  And indeed it did.  From there, it was a small step to add the product of shoulder cords, each cord being handmade, even today.  Shoulder cords inspired citation cords, shoulder knots, epaulettes, and the selling of braid, itself—flat, soutache, edge cord,  and the rounded tubular.  Lowney focused on what he felt were basic stock colors (custom dyed colors became available upon request) as he broadened his clientele to include schools and marching bands, hotels and theatres, police, postal, and security uniforms.  The creation of the Lowney braid business was on its way.

Twenty-year old son George abandoned his job in a grocery store and eventually took over the firm, maintaining his father’s original goals and standards while growing the business at the same time.   Moving out of the garage, Gripflex currently boasts 15,000 square feet of braiding machines and inventory, as well as over 40 employees who at once do the hands-on work, and assist with customer service in the front offices. It is one of two braid houses that remain in the United States, today.

All of George Lowney's children have played an active role in the third generation of family ownership, but it is Michael Lowney who has been in charge for the last 11 years, adding his own innovations to the company.  Not squeamish about trying new things, Michael has inspired such ideas as stretch braid for garments where a fixed flat braid impedes movement and is destructive to the fibers of the braid itself; there are the lighted band accessories, developed by JF Magic—shoulder cords that are actually battery operated and work off of LED fiber optics, so that marching bands and other groups wearing braided uniforms may be seen at night; supported by his brother, Steve, who developed the corporate website, Michael also has attended multiple trade-shows, attempting to develop new audiences for his products; and he focuses on providing excellent customer service with state of the art communication tools. 

One of the finest tributes to Gripflex is that many of its staff have remained loyal—some for as long as 40 years—no mean feat in today’s transient world of employment opportunities.  Several members of whole families work both office and production, with no thought of looking elsewhere for a job.   The Gripflex family is so closely knit and so professional in its operation that Michael feels each individual is able to take responsibility for his own time and his own job; the level of trust he has in his colleagues is beyond reproach.  Gripflex is open five days a week, on a 24 hour production schedule, running three shifts: A true definition of successful initiative.  

During the last several years, the Lowney’s have looked at offshore manufacturing for their products.  They readily acknowledge that it would be less expensive to do so, which is an important factor from a business standpoint.  However, Michael is adamant that he will continue to be an American manufacturer as long as he can, even if it costs a little more.  He is fiercely proud of his commitment to our economy, and to his sense of patriotic loyalty.  It is not all idealistic, however, as he cites quality control, customs, and several of his clients, such as the U.S. military, that insist on buying American.

Michael Lowney is not an old man:  He is 42 years old, with two young children, and a wife who is a stay-at-home mom.  Nevertheless, he reflects that even in his short tenure, let alone those of his father and grandfather, that while the braid business itself has not changed significantly—because it is fairly static in terms of its decorative abilities and how it’s applied—the garments for which braid is used have changed enormously.   It used to be that the big band houses would purchase loads of braid for fabulous and showy marching uniforms made of woolens and polyesters.  Today’s garments are less about braid and chauvinistic old world regalia but more about a kind of “Star Trekky” tighter fitting stretch appeal.  Noting the passing of history even in his business, he reminisces. 

“The colors are the same, but the fabrics, the styles, the garments are totally different,” he says.  “We’ve had several of our customers since the ‘60’s, but the volume is down because so many things have changed.  In addition, he reckons with the reality that so much is indeed going on offshore, and that many of the smaller American “mom and pop” shops are gone.” 

“We’re in a small industry,” he admits, “and there’s only so much of the pie to go around.  Still, we’re very lucky, considering what’s going on out there in this economy, that we’re doing as well as we are, so we must be doing something right.”

With that, Michael Lowney smiles about the Gripflex Corporation and admits he’s looking forward to the next 50 years of successful production, and that hopefully, his own children will be the fourth generation to become involved in this very fine and creative company.

Gentleman's Agreement: A Disappearing Trend: UniformMarketNews.com

"So many things have changed," Dave Hindlemann reflects. "It used to be a handshake was a man's word. Now, it's lawyers and contracts – cut and dried. The personal element is missing."  (“Made to Measure Magazine," Spring/Summer, 1997).

If you’ve been talking with your colleagues lately, or even if you’ve been involved personally, you’ve probably noticed that our society has changed when it comes to the way in which it does business.  Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac aside, credit crunch and housing markets, too, the uniform industry has been hit with the same kinds of changes in ethical behavior—not only from customers, but from our own small family of apparel manufacturers and suppliers.

More and more, companies are refusing to lend credit, expecting prompt payments with 50% down and balance prepaid before delivery.  More and more customers find themselves short and not wanting to pay their bills, no matter how loyal they’ve been in the past.  Return authorizations are being required from corporations that heretofore accepted merchandise sent back as a matter of courtesy: Good will is no longer the name of the game.  One or two bad customers can shift more friendly relaxed business policies away from good will, towards harsh, stiff penalties. 

Companies that have previously been referred to as being legitimate have no qualms about writing out contracts or purchase orders, and reneging on them without blinking an eye.   Jobbers who buy and sell goods are paradigm.  They offer rock bottom prices, insist the selling customer wrap and label every bolt of fabric (costing hundreds of dollars in labor), change the terms as much as two or three times, and then feel free drop the contract, altogether, knowing that a lawsuit against them would cost the aggrieved party far more than any sale would be worth.  A legal piece of paper means little.

Leading suppliers in the industry find themselves being “stiffed” over and over and over again as manufacturers drive their businesses into the ground, bankrupting themselves rather than closing up before their accounts can be paid.  It’s not one supplier; it’s not one manufacturer; that’s the tragedy of it.  It’s become a trend.  It’s almost as though one’s fellow human being doesn’t matter any more.  When President Harry Truman said, “The buck stops here, he was referring to responsibility—fiscal and otherwise—not his inside pockets.

Commission sales?  Repeat sales?  Whatever happened to customer loyalty?  Whatever happened to a vendor calling on loyal customers?  Whatever happened to salespeople respecting colleagues’ territories?  Whatever happened to companies who used to sell strictly wholesale, but have decided additionally to sell retail, and also undercut their own sales forces by going direct to the customer with a cheaper price than a salesman could offer?

Whatever happened to identity companies that used to make their money solely on embroidery or screen printing—that now sell garments at cost to retail customers in addition, so that the uniform companies have to struggle to compete with those on whom they once depended for wholesale service?

Sound like a lot of whining?  No.  It’s about business ethics:  Respect for one’s fellow, and genuine love of a game that includes the players as well as the rewards.

Women are treated shamefully.  One woman who owned a contract shop first had to bring in her father to gain respect, and then her husband.  The irony is that her 50+ employees are 99% women.  It’s not only about men, but women themselves don’t respect other women as leaders in our industry.  Another smart, savvy gal with whom I spoke waxed philosophical and said that one must be tolerant, bite the bullet and keep one’s mouth shut, not stooping to the level of those who insult people merely because of their gender.  Sounds stoic and mature.  Not so easy to do. 

There was the company who lifted all the drawings from one website to its own, copyright laws aside.  It wasn’t about a link.  The kicker is that the one company was actually doing business with the other at the time of the thievery.   How sad that in such a small and close group of professionals such as ours, each business—mostly small in size, as we struggle to band together to survive  offshore manufacturing that is biting at our heels—has to sleep with one eye open, so to speak. 

Independent contractors are often of a dubious sort at best:  Deadlines and quality control are mysteries left unsolved until the work is turned in.   One can only hope.  

Still and all, it must be said that there are the good guys, too.  What’s encouraging, it isn’t about age.  One might think would be.  There are younger people and older people who are kind, disciplined, and principled; a part of old school values.  Make no mistake that such is the case.

Vendors pitch in to help one another in a tight spot, all the time.  And it’s swell.   However, it’s not about whole companies or general policies any more.  It’s not common practice, but rather the exception to the rule.  People are nice, people take an interest.  But the reality is our industry is so besieged by offshore pressures and survival tactics, the real people who matter often get lost in the shuffle.  That’s what’s sad.


The important thing is that when you go home, you want to be able to sleep at night.  If your approach and behavior toward your customers and colleagues are quite literally the same as those with which you would want them to treat you, then you know you’re on the right path.  If not, perhaps you need to make some changes.   There’s nothing wrong with being competitive or wanting to win the sale.  But there’s a tragedy if it’s at human expense when the price is good will, trust, respect, integrity, and responsibility. 

Ragtime Cowboy Joe: UniformMarketNews.com

I’d like to say a few words about the cowboy shirt, (or perhaps I could hum a few bars if I were a Country Western singer).  For many, this particular item may be somewhat unfamiliar—either because one grew up in a part of the country that doesn’t have cowboys, or because one is just too young to have been exposed to the culture of the Old West.  But for those who do remember Hopalong Cassidy, Roy Rogers, and Gene Autry, they can readily acknowledge that the cowboy shirt is as much a part of our American heritage as those cattle punchers, themselves.

The actual garment, as it is today, was developed by Jack A. Weil, who came to Colorado in 1928, and eventually perfected a shirt that appealed to the modest income of the men who worked the open range.  Certainly, there were men herding cattle long before Weil, and who continued to do so even as the legend of the Wild West was coming to a close—a result of the settlers who came in droves. But Weil is the one credited with giving the official shirt its modern-day appearance.  As he said, the West is a state of mind: It didn’t have a specific place or time; he built on that concept, with the myth being more prominent than the reality.   

It was Weil who put snaps on the garments, for example, instead of buttons:  A snap couldn’t be torn off by barbed wire fences, a cowpoke was not going to sew on a missing button, and a steer couldn’t catch its horn in the button hole.  The broad yoke across the shoulders tended to make a man look larger, stronger; the tighter upper arms gave the appearance of bigger muscles, so that the cowboy tended to look as heroic as the legends that were written about him.  The sawtooth scalloped pockets kept tobacco pouches inside: Whereas a standard pocket was too open, these had flaps that snapped shut. Wide, snug cuffs kept dirt, campfires, and critters at bay.

The garments were worn regularly by presidents such as Johnson and Reagan, movie stars such as Elvis Presley and Robert Redford, and everyday folks just like you and me—cattlemen and city slickers alike.  Certainly, they became a part of the giant entertainment industry, whether it was “Gunsmoke,” “The Rifleman,” or “True Grit”—radio, television, and film.

So what, you ask, does all this have to do with uniforms?  Everything.  The whole purpose of the uniform is to set a person apart by defining his separate and unique role from the surrounding milieu.  It’s about identity.  It’s about sameness within a range of variation: Everyone who wears a uniform dresses alike, but stands for or is doing something different from those who are not wearing that very same clothing. 

The cowboy shirt thrusts an individual into a different culture, a different time period, and a different place from where he would ordinarily and otherwise be.  Yet, every cowboy can easily identify with all of the other cowboys because they have the same cowboy dress and the same cowboy values.  There is a sense of unity that is strongly present.

The everyday cowboy shirt, made of chambray, denim, a cotton flannel, cotton or a poly-cotton, is what is most commonly worn. They come in stripes, plaids, checks, solids, calicoes, and prints.  Referred to as work uniforms, the cowboy styling can be seen on the open range, or the plains behind a tractor.  It can be seen at the gas station, the repair shop, at the grocery store, or in church on a Sunday morning.  Many folks prefer the tighter western cut pants and the western-styled shirts to the standard cuts and looser fits.

Using the cowboy shirt for performances, it becomes a costume, but a uniform, nevertheless.  Everyone matches, basically does the same thing, and is set apart from the greater whole.  The great cowboy shirt designers, such as Turk and Nudie were extraordinary in their day—when legends such as Tom Mix, Rex Allen and the rest were all great idols who represented independent, rough-riding Americans. 

These shirts were and are still made with hand-set rhinestones, custom applied braid and cording, and embroidery discs that are thirty-forty thousand stitches per disc, with as many as six discs per shirt.  They’re made of heavy polyester, poly-wool, or charmeuse and satin fabrics, and cost upward of $500 per garment.  In and of themselves, they are works of art.

But make no mistake: When you watch the Rose Bowl parade or go to the state fairs; when you attend the National Western Stock Show in Denver, or follow the rodeos around the country; when you go to Nashville, or watch the round-up’s in Wyoming and the Northwest; if you travel to the Southwest or to National Park country; if you encounter a state patrol or the sheriff, you’ll see cowboy shirts.  

It’s a sad passing that the cowboy shirt isn’t as ubiquitous as it used to be, because it stands for a part of the American character and time that is becoming less and less of a presence.  It stands for American values that, like the shirt itself, are unique during all the history of civilization.   Pragmatic, practical, innovative, remarkable, stylish in an uncompromising and non-traditional way: That’s the American cowboy shirt, that’s the West that it represents, and that is the fiber of our nation.

       

Trends Or Traditions--Are Uniforms Still Uniform?: UniformMarketNews.com

A guy telephoned the other day and said that his corporation is going to revolutionize the uniform business.  He said that the bigger companies are antiquated, outmoded, and little more than fuddy duddy in an ever changing world.  Navy, grey, black, and burgundy are out.  So are classic and traditional.  He said people want uniforms that don’t look like uniforms.  They want style, fashion, flair, color.  Fabrics with zip and zing.  

He steered me to another manufacturer (whose catalogue looks pretty much like the others, just between us), but said that these folks had the greatest cocktail dresses, and that made all the difference.  Imagination with a swish: The wave of changing uniform styles, he insisted.  Could be.   But you couldn’t go by me.  The dresses were indeed lovely, albeit not for the chronologically or horizontally challenged. 

The uniform business today is pretty much open season.  That’s the good news and the bad news.  On the one hand, anything goes.  Everything from hot pants and halter tops, to ankle length skirts with finger tip jackets and jewel necklines. 

On the other hand, there are no real guidelines for buyers or sellers to follow, and no sense of place or decorum to set a style or a universal tone.  Some uniforms are so generic, that without their name badges or security I.D’s, it’s difficult to tell who the employees are.  A policeman pulled up to my shop the other day in a navy golf shirt and khaki shorts—I thought he was a camp counselor until he pulled his badge out of his pocket.

It’s tough for the customer to know what’s what; a sales rep who doesn’t know his client and the market—who hasn’t thoroughly done his homework—won’t have much luck making that sale if price points, delivery dates, and sparking the GM’s fancy, haven’t been key elements in his presentation.  It’s not unusual that today’s customer will want a blend of fashion from five or even ten different catalogues plus customization. 

Some companies want casual, some want more formal.  It doesn’t matter any more, because each company sets its own standards.  But don’t kid yourself; political correctness matters.  A restaurant wanted to order 300 custom made tops: A little bit of decollate with ruffling and a lower neckline.  Turns out, one waitress had a larger bosom but was modest.  All 300 garments had to be re-designed with a higher neck and extra buttons to cover one woman’s cleavage.

Some groups want polo shirts while some want woven shirts.  Others want a choice of both.  There are those who want uniform strength and laundering care, while others prefer a color or look that will not be found in more standard uniform garb.  Chances are ready-to-wear industrial shirts won’t come in hot purple, for instance.  There’s no call for them, no volume, no profit.  Conversely, you’ll find an entire group of Shriners on the golf course wearing cargo shorts in this very same regal shade.  Go figure.

Certainly, the traditional corporate motif remains the tried and true.  Despite the critic who distains the more conservative approach to uniforms, there’s a lot to be said for one style fits all—or almost all—and a dressier appearance that reports a sense of professionalism and pride in one’s position.  One can also say the same of the casual approach with the polo or camp shirt, and a sharp pair of slacks.  Of course, there’s always industrial garb with an enormous variety of shirts, pants, coveralls, jackets, and the like.  Hats, sweaters, aprons, gloves, belts, ties, and all kinds of accessories?  Of course.

But to be sure, with six generations in the workplace, new fabrics, global focus when doing business, the infusion of multi-culturalism, environmental awareness, more women, plus androgyny, what used to be called “the” uniform for a particular career position is just one of many styles in today’s world. 

Business organizations want blazers in off-shades:  Baby pink or turquoise blue for the gals, bright Popsicle orange or Kelly green for the fellows.  Female bartenders are into backless tuxedo vests that tie rather than have adjustable straps with slide buckles: “We don’t want to look like we’re wearing seat belts,” they say. 

Scrubs are taking on a whole new appearance.  The Asian look is “in.”  There are the standard O.R. types, and the upgraded cute prints, all in new and more flattering lines.  Then, there are the fabrics with patterns that are so color coordinated and stylish that the garments almost need a parasol and matching shoes to accompany them to surgery.  The other day, I had a woman call who wanted stethoscopes in multiple colors to match each of her outfits.   Do they exist?  Yes.

I think the winner of the Most Unusual Uniform Award goes to the infra-red camera company that wanted shirts and pants to match the color tomography it uses to test structural insulation temperatures. The bodies of the shirts were yellow with lime green sleeves, deep purple collar and cuffs, a royal blue placket, and a red pocket to match red pleated front pants.  The buttons were black.  Was the concept more innovative than a traditional scarlet red Victorian doorman coat with a silver and white striped Valencia vest?   Not in the slightest.  Just different.

Currently, all styles, fabrics, patterns and designs are in the forefront of the uniform industry.  It’s only a question of creativity and wise assessment in the mind of the salesperson when it comes to working with the customer.  It’s no longer about thinking outside the box; in today’s world, the boxes no longer exist.

Fit To Be Tied: UniformMarketNews.Com

Recent statistics tell us that a mere 6% of the eligible population wears neckties these days.  In Japan, it’s reported that working men and women, by taking off their coats and ties, are saving millions of dollars in energy costs because their offices can now be four degrees warmer as employees are four degrees cooler: A casualty of global warming.  All over the United States, from governors and mayors down to the working man on the street, folks are following suit.  For many companies, casual dress-down Fridays are now five days a week.

In the winter, turtlenecks suffice instead of the standard decorative neck accessory.  In the warmer months, golf shirts, banded collars, mock turtles, T-shirts, and Henley’s take center stage.  Two-piece stand collar shirts—button-down or no—are worn with or without a sports coat, but sans neckwear.  Even world leaders don’t wear ties any more, and if they do, it’s not as frequent as it used to be:  Comfort before protocol.

In some countries, it is standard bill of fare that no neckties are worn.  Particularly in Asian and Mediterranean countries, the tie is viewed as a symbol of decadent Western culture and values: Wanton capitalism and a kind of hedonism where purposeless beauty is valued over utilitarianism.

Truth be known, the tie has no practical value other than covering up a fat belly, buttons, or hidden food stains.  While one could argue that it keeps the neck warm and cozy, or that it holds one’s shirt together, the tie is really all about being a symbol of rank, status, school or organizational affiliation, and a piece of decorative beauty.  It can be very expensive or quite reasonable, depending on one’s purpose and pocketbook.  Generally, it is made of silk, wool, polyester, or cotton.  But it has also been made of the finest laces, and leathers. 

Ties represent a particular culture and time, depending on style and fabric.  The bolo tie, for instance, represents the American West’s cowboys and Indians.  The cravat is French, and goes back to the elegant days of Louis XIV at Versailles.  The ascot and jabot are inventions of the more Romantic 19^th century.  The bow tie is purported to have evolved from the cravat, originally being used to hold the collar of a shirt together, but is now paired with formal wear, buffoonery as with clowns, or with particular professions, such as doctors, attorneys, professors, and the like.  It is in a league of its own. 

The necktie itself, often called the four-in-hand tie (the knot resembles the reins of a four-horse team) really came into vogue with the Industrial Revolution in the mid 19^th century.  People flocked to cities rather than working the farmlands, and dress became more formal.  A worker needed a style that would not only keep out of the way when using machinery or doing his job, but at the same time urban culture was developing and the tie became a means revealing one’s place in society.  A banker wore a very different neck piece than a baker, for instance.

The necktie’s presence has been valued and maintained throughout the last two centuries, and a gentleman—no matter his income—would not be seen in public without his hat and tie.  This is particularly true of schools and the military.  The cliché “old school ties” is about more than good buddies and loyalties.  The necktie, with its rep stripes or club motifs, told about secret societies, fraternal orders, and officers’ standings.  Made from a wool Tartan or plaid, whole Scottish clans and their geographical locations were identified by their kilts, scarves, and ties. 

Today, however, such is not the case.  The tie has sadly become antiquated in the sense of general use.  When one figures that in China, as far back as the 3^rd century B.C., the emperor Shih Huan Ti was buried with the life size clay models of his 7,500 soldiers—each one different save for the fact that every soldier was wearing a silk necktie—it boggles the mind that within just the last decade, a tradition that has been around for over two millennia has all but unraveled. 

It’s true that some schools, preppy and corporate dress both for uniforms and for personal apparel still mandate ties.  Newscasters seem to be the last of the breed to sport the neckpiece in public.  But overall, despite the multiple offerings and the unusual designs that present themselves, the current fashion market has little demand for the tie.  Department stores are closing out their stocks, and uniform companies that specialized in neckwear are closing up.  Another tradition strangled by our rapidly revolving society. 

For women, it used to be that scarves were “in,” and for a while in the ’80’s, the newly defined feminist corporate career woman was all about the cross-over tie and various neck bows.  Security guards, and folks who want a perfect knot without the hassle of tying it themselves, go for a pre-tied clip-on style.  The good news about these is that they pull right off, and nothing or just a thin strap goes around the neck.  It’s a great safety feature, and also helpful for those folks who don’t or can’t have their necks bound tightly.  These, too, have been mostly abandoned.

The bottom line, if you’re thinking of going into the neckwear business, is to stick with jewelry.  The cloth appendages that once adorned a person’s appearance are disappearing fast.  While there are those who insist on the propriety of the tie, they’re becoming more difficult to find, and less sought after every day: Discipline and dignity in dress are out.   Sad but true, they are an anachronism in their own time.

Is Green The Color of Money?--UniformMarketNews.Com

Going “green:” Environmental protection from the decadence of technology in order to allow our natural resources to breathe again.   Today’s conscientious society, in developing entire new lines of clothing, is at once saving the planet from careless abandon during our parents’ generation, and hoping to garner a fortune in the manufacturing business at the same time.  Let us review…

In order to maintain itself, the uniform industry has to dedicate itself to a few steadfast principles: Economy, durability, longevity, practicality, and attractive appearance.   As things currently exist, few to none of these aspects that are so necessary in a top notch uniform are real possibilities in an organic garment.  Perhaps they will be accessible one day—even sooner rather than later—but for now, there is a choice to be made between the two. 

Let’s take economy.  The cost of organic fibers is anywhere from two to four times greater than standardized fabric.  For virgin plants, there have to be customized agricultural procedures, with special protection from bugs but without using bug sprays, or isolated fields that don’t utilize practiced protective measures.  At this point in time, these methods of growth and harvesting are minimal in volume compared to standard horticultural techniques; thus, enormously expensive.  A tough sell in the marketplace. 

There is currently a need and desire for processing new plants that heretofore were not used for fabrics, but now are—corn or bamboo, for example, which take enormous amounts of costly dilution in order to become usable as woven fibers.  Imagine that folks are now craving to wear garments made out of what used to be used for building houses, bridges, and flooring.  It’s a great idea, but the procedures are neither cheap, easy, nor as environmentally friendly as one would think.

Most of the organics come in very neutral tones, and in order to dye them (are we insisting on organic dyes, which themselves are limited and add up monetarily?) we’re again limited in overall palette selection.  Every time we want to dye organic goods, it’s an additional process with specialized chemistry.  The dollar signs increase, and the customer has to make choices.   You can purchase a swell set of scrubs, for instance, 100% organic cotton or hemp in the neutral tones of ivory and olive, for just $80.00, or a poly cotton set in the color of your choice for $24.00.  Who can afford it?

Durability and longevity are critical in the uniform industry.  It’s vital that garments last as long as possible before replacement.  There are several really attractive fabrics in the organics—knits, charmeuses, silks, corduroys, open weaves, to name a few.  For garments that need these kinds of materials: t-shirts, blouses, jackets, diapers, etc., organics are terrific.  But by and large, the uniform business is not made up of such commodities, whereas the seasonal, quixotic and short-lived fashion industry is. 

Rather, sturdy uniforms that are built to be cool, inexpensive, and last over time with as little care as possible, are what is required.  With the exception of the jutes and burlaps, it’s going to be difficult to find an organic weave that is as strong as it is long lasting.  And between us, who wants to wear  apparel made of burlap? 

Hemp is a very durable fiber, but the weave is loose, and it doesn’t hold.  It’s more gauze-like.  Tencel wrinkles and stains like crazy.  Cotton has never been strong; denim wears out quickly—look at any pair of blue jeans at the knees.  While it’s true that organic t-shirts for restaurants, or organic smocks for spas would be perfect choices, the overall tenacity of the garments just isn’t there.

The practicality of organics in the uniform industry is probably the most important issue of all.  Populations have only come upon technology in garment manufacturing during the last 60-100 years, depending upon one’s point of view.  Before that, there were no polyesters, no fabric treatments, no blends.  There were no special soaps, dyes, treatments, or chemicals. 

While it’s true that there was ignorance about the prevalence of existing metals, such as lead or mercury, it really wasn’t until the 20^th century that things stopped being “organic.”  The simple reason for the infusion of chemistry into our lives was that advancing technology was able to make our world easier and more comfortable by treating fabrics in such a way as to give them greater strength.   Before that, mothers stayed home and scrubbed with their washboards, mended if there was a hole, ironed after the clothes had dried on the line outside, and people had lower expectations, just being grateful to have anything to wear at all.

Today, when we ask for wicking, which is the process of drawing extra moisture away from the skin and absorbing it into the cloth in order to stay cool and sweat-free, we are seeking greater comfort for ourselves.  Technology is responsible for such a procedure.  It’s not organic.  Neither are soil-resistant finishes, wrinkle-free, nor permanent press treatments.  If you like water repellent rain coats, better forget about them—not to mention water proof.  All of these stay-warm light weight fabrics such as Gortex:  They’re o.u.t.  The nylons, like Supplex?  The stretches as in Spandex?  Nope.  Not those either.  In fact, the entire recreational/sports world will have a big problem going green, in spite of active wear soy pants, or polar fleece sweatshirts made out of recycled bottles.

Finally, the appearance of a uniform is critical, because it sets the visual tone of identity for the group it represents.  It’s difficult to find organic fibers that have a crisp, bandbox look, and where the colors are vibrant and cheerful rather than more earth-toned and subdued.  Instead, most of them appear limp, saggy, baggy, and used.  For many, this look will speak up and say, “Look at me!  I’m green!”  For others, it will be a costly reminder of dull, drab, and impractical.  It will be very interesting to see where the trend takes us.      

      

Anchors Away--Offshore Manufacturing: Article for UniformMarketNews.com

It’s nothing new that these days Americans are buying offshore merchandise by the billions of dollars.  Uniforms are no exception.  Any uniform manufacturer—any article of clothing used for uniforms and sold by a manufacturer or a distributor—that has any sort of volume to it at all, is made overseas.

There is no question that the world grows smaller by the nano-second.  That the United States has multiple trade treaties and tariff agreements with other countries, either pending or in effect, is undeniable.  It is absolutely true that cheaper goods purchased overseas have allowed millions of American citizens to have a better quality of life, just as it is also true that our economy has been pumped heartily by those who shop for offshore-made goods—not only at the Wal-Mart’s, K-Mart’s, and Target’s—but at the Penney’s, Sears’, Macy’s, Saks, Neiman’s, and Nordstrom’s, too.

We can debate and argue about geo-politics and economic forecasts from now until Doomsday, but the bottom line is that things aren’t going to go backward; if any changes occur in our present economic situation, they will only be to further the global economy. 

It used to be that supply and demand was a local, regional, or even national issue.  Now, it has expanded to an international one.  Manufacturing is in the midst of a huge revolution; the dust nowhere near settling.  What is so is that production is about the survival of the fittest.  It used to be that the United States filled that bill and came out on top.  Now, it no longer does for many reasons.  Sadly, we are the worse off for it.

It is safe to say that if we went to war with the Chinese, we would have to order our military uniforms from them first, in order to dress for the occasion.  Executives, hotel concierges, dignitaries, enormous numbers of corporate individuals in our country wear elegant attire made offshore.  Very few could dress to meet the public if it were up to what’s left of stateside American uniform manufacturing.  The same holds true for industrial, public safety, hospitality wear, medical apparel, and athletic wear.  Even school uniforms are made overseas—what ever happened to motherhood, Uncle Sam, and apple pie?  With the exception of very few companies, and even fewer genres (such as the band uniform business), most garments today are no longer made in this country.

Yes, there are very fine tailors—but fewer of them.  There are excellent cut and sew operations, but so sparse that those which are of value are backlogged with work for weeks and weeks in terms of turnaround time.  There are small companies here and there—maybe ten or twenty at most in the entire country—who still do custom uniforms to specification, for groups such as Shrines, fancy parades, designer restaurants and hotels.  There are a few costumers.  There are those small factories which are affiliated with single garment operations, such as aprons, shirts, certain dress military or fraternal order uniforms.  They keep going.  But even for them, it’s difficult.

Almost everyone who manufactures in the United States today does private label, because it’s another way to survive—making something for someone else, as well as under one’s own name.   It’s a daily struggle, and while some are doing better than others, the apparel business—which has never been easy—is now harder than ever.

It’s not just the manufacturers themselves, but suppliers that are choking, too.  Since so much weaving and dyeing of cloth, production of notions such as thread, buttons, shoulder pads, etc., all come from offshore now; because the machines are also made offshore; because labor and goods are so much cheaper there; why pay customs and freight to bring all of this into the country when it could be utilized where the garments are now being made? 

Relatively speaking, there is so little production here in the ‘States, it’s easier to job goods onto the Mainland in much smaller quantities, rather than to stock giant amounts hoping that some American manufacturer will snap it all up.  American uniform suppliers, as well as American uniform manufacturers are dying on the vine.    

There are two real wrenches in the garment business in this country:  The first is that there is no real labor pool anymore.  Certainly, there are pockets here and there.  But very few Americans know how to sew today.  The two groups who do most of the actual work are either Hispanic or Asian immigrants.  Truth be known, as they become more integrated into our society, they, too, go on to do other things.  Hiring is murder. 

The second wrench is that the cost of production is so high.  Americans demand American wages and so far, others around the world work for much less, and as a result, merchandise is made for much less overseas.  These two issues alone are killing us as we try to compete in our own marketplace.  Our own bigger manufacturers go offshore, making it even harder for those who are smaller and take pride in putting that little red, white, and blue flag inside their garments.

As the trend for uniforms to be made offshore continues, the one small glimmer of light in all of this is that eventually trade balances.  Water seeks its own level.  As the dollar drops, people begin to think about the United States: Suddenly, it’s cheaper to buy merchandise made here than in China or Central America.  As other countries become more prosperous due to American dollars pumping their own economies, their wages and standards of living increase, as well.  Things begin to even out.  The real question is, can American uniform manufacturers and suppliers stay afloat long enough until some sort of prosperity returns?

Do It Up Brown: Essay for Made to Measure Magazine

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Chances are that when the teacher asked you what your favorite color was, brown wasn’t the first choice.  It’s one of those things.  Ubiquitous like air and water, brown is an all-pervasive hue that just is; as a result, most folks take it for granted rather than think of it as being really special or unique.  Let’s face it: brown lacks pizzazz.

On the other hand, brown in the uniform industry—despite objections to the contrary by navy’s, blacks, and grey’s—has been a staple that has not only been around forever, but commands identity and respect because of its no-nonsense down to earth connotation.

You have to figure that clothing was originally brown—animal skins.  Plants and natural dyes were often in the browns, so as fabrics evolved, brown was still the staple.  When man discovered weaving and color processing technologies, brown stepped back for the emergence of red’s, blue’s, green’s, yellow’s, and so forth.  But in all native societies, brown still held the prominent spot as a shade.  It became the color of the common people. 

Brown reminds us of wood, nature, and earth.  It’s a warm mix of other muddied primary colors, and often borders on yellow, orange, green, or burgundy.  It’s all about comfort, reality, and the inevitable.  Brown just is.

UPS knows about brown—“Pullman Brown” to be precise.  The largest delivery service in the world has chosen plain ‘ole dark chocolate as its uniform masthead.  It’s not fancy like Fed Ex with purple this and navy that; not a food product like DHL—red and yellow as ketchup and mustard on a hotdog; not catchy like all the other freight companies.  Nope.  UPS is basic brown, and the genius who decided on this particular color as the single identifier of the company, knew it was a winner.  The entire world knows “Brown,” as UPS has come to call itself.  Practically speaking, with the traveling, the dust stirred up by the delivery trucks, all the boxes—mostly in coordinated brown cardboard containers—these delivery folks don’t have to worry about too much dirt and laundering; everything matches brown.

Ever bought Girl Scout Cookies?  Do you know how many millions of girls and women are in the Girl Scouts?  From the earliest years of elementary school, kids join this mammoth service organization; guess who the entry level participants are, and what they wear: Brownies.  Any American child either knows or is a Brownie.  (Remember the beanies that look like Hershey’s Kisses?)   Speaking of which, if you’ve been to Hershey, Pennsylvania, you know all about chocolate, and more brown. 

One of the ugliest chapters in history was the German Nazi elite during the Second World War—Hitler’s “Brown Shirts,” as they were called.  But Hitler’s murderers aside (if one may dare to be so cavalier with such heinous memories), the land-based military in more recent times has made enormous use of brown.  Part of this is because of the camouflage with the ground—soldiers are more difficult to see when they match the terrain (lighter tans for the sandier soil, and darker browns for richer farm lands); part of the reasoning is to remind the people what these soldiers are fighting for: terra firma, the motherland.   

During the ‘70’s, brown was “in;” if you can believe it, brown was actually a fashion color.  Between the military look of soldiers and the psychological connotations of “warm,” “friendly,” and “no-nonsense,” several police forces expounded on tan and darker brown tones.  County, state, and city police all went to brown, with the hopes of commanding user-friendly respect from citizens as they politely handed out summonses and tickets: A cross no doubt between the Park Forest Rangers and the Boy Scouts.   (In downtown Manhattan, however, the response to the traffic police dressed in brown was so negative that the Commissioner had to spend $24,000 to change all the uniforms back to blue in order to physically protect his men.  The “cops” became known as “the Brownies,” and were literally either pummeled, teased, or treated as doormen for the finer hotels.)

In athletic apparel, brown goes in and out with style and public fervor.  The Cleveland Browns (owned by Paul Brown); the once St. Louis Browns aka now the Baltimore Orioles; the San Diego Padres: Brown.   

In the corporate world, brown has pretty much followed fashion.  Browns were big when polyester first came into vogue.  President Reagan used to wear brown suits instead of Washingtonian black or dark navy—he wanted to present as a man of the people.  But then it was gone.  Now, with the re-emergence of coffee (yes, Starbucks and cyber cafes are our new national pastime), brown has seen a renaissance.  Poly wools and polyesters are back on the scene.  Poly cottons:  Khaki, a lighter shade of brown, has become so prevalent that certain pants have taken on the same name—not as a color, but as an entire style: “Khakis.”  Of course, all the popular organic fabrics come in varying degrees of brown, too.

One can open any catalogue or check a group of swatch cards and find contemporary browns in delicious abundance: Hazelnut, mocha, toffee, taupe, dark chocolate, cocoa, latte, or milk chocolate.  For the purists, the mundane:  Tan, brown, medium brown, dark brown, rust, or puce.  Don’t forget nature:  Mahogany, heather, hickory, bark, sand, sable, and mink.  A plethora of tones.

So the next time you think about a customer’s need for something unique and stylish, be creative in a down home way: Think friendly and welcoming, low-key and with an image that says “Hey, we’re one of you, and we mean business.”  Brown isn’t used that often but yet when it is, it’s a terrific success.