I Spiewak & Sons, Inc.: Jackets and Fine Fashion--Made to Measure Magazine

Michael Spiewak, 46, is C.E.O. for one of the world’s largest manufacturers of uniform and fashion outerwear.   In a huge global market, Spiewak manufactures over 50% of the domestic & international jacket trade.  From offices in downtown Manhattan, Michael assures the future of the family-owned corporation as he concentrates on multiple marketing strategies.   “The product isn’t it,” he emphasizes.  “There has to be more.  There is a perception in the marketplace of who we are.  Our brand name is our equity.  People don’t respond to manufacturing; they respond to things they remember—the people and the service.  Everything else is secondary.”

Michael is the second son of second sons--generations going back to Eastern Europe and Isaac Spiewak, who came to this country to find a better life.  Intelligent, responsible, enterprising, physically massive and strong, Spiewak began the same way as so many others.  He learned leather cutting from a cousin, then set out on his own. 1904--a single room in Brooklyn, pushcarts, making and selling an item which ordinary working people desperately needed.  Young Spiewak had 1 goal: to provide for his family.

Because of his size and strength, Isaac Spiewak was able to bale heavy sheepskins, the material used for winter warmth in those years.    He made vests, then coats.  He went from direct selling on the streets, to jobbers--wholesalers who represented him in retail trade.  In 1919, the trade name “Golden Fleece” was born.   Spiewak moved to 14th St.  No longer a peddler, he had become a businessman.

Isaac determined his family of 8 children would thrive.  However, each argued for control as he became a partner in the young business.  It was disaster.  The patriarch figured a way to keep his promise to his family, ease tensions, increase his own productivity: He established several outerwear corporations, sending various children to manage each.  Rubin & Sons, Bronco, Ram Mfg., Robert Louis Sportswear, United Sheepwear, are all offspring of Isaac Spiewak.

Transition through the generations has been possible because each successive owner has had a unique perspective of technology and the marketplace.  None of them has forgotten Isaac’s commitment to family and business ethics—“We work to live; we do not live to work,” said second generation Philip Spiewak.

“Quality of life has always mattered, whether it be a family member’s satisfaction with job fulfillment, or an employee’s civil rights issue,” reiterates Gerald, current Chairman of the Board and third generation.  The story of Spiewak is not so much about warm, protective jackets as it is about genuine, caring people.

World War I came, bringing wool in addition to leather, and contracts from the military.  In the early ‘20’s, the company moved to Haverstraw, NY; son Philip was involved by this time.  With a degree in architecture and a keen business sense, he understood garment construction and plant expansion.  Technology advanced, styles changed, World War II exploded.  Larger still, the factory had moved to New Jersey.  Cotton had been introduced to flight jackets, along with leather “bombers,” 32 oz. wool pea coats, and sheepskin flight suits.  As many as 300 garments a day went out of a single plant, different buildings producing varying styles & fabrics.

Philip became head of Spiewak in 1948, bringing his 3 sons with him: Bob had a degree in journalism, understanding finance and administration; Jerry graduated from the Wharton School of Business, focusing on sales and industrial management; Marty studied at the Fashion Institute @ NYU, knowing design, pattern-making, quality control.  

After the War, nylon was introduced along with other synthetics: “It used to take 35 pounds to provide warmth for a street cop on horseback; with synthetics, it took 3,” Jerry proudly reminisces.  Jerry, the “outside man,” became president.  Communications, transportation had improved; jobbers and wholesalers were no longer needed; Spiewak went directly to retailers.  In the 50’s, the firm outfitted American Airlines, and now handles most of the world’s airline trade.  Spiewak learned to adapt to its clients’ needs—the job, the climate, the look--from Greenland to the equator, the corporate world to television & cinema.

Growth spawned factories in Mississippi and overseas.  Always ahead of its time, Spiewak created Titan Cloth, which Jerry invented by adapting automobile seat-coverings for wearability.

One of the primary reasons for the company’s huge success was Jerry’s wife, Shirley (deceased in August).   Her social skills and business acumen won hearts and cemented corporate relationships.  With her support, Jerry was strengthened in his presidencies: The National Outerwear & Sportswear Association, N.A.M.U.D., the Uniform Association; and as Board member of the American Manufacturers of Apparel Association.  He also created a tradeshow company for surplus and outerwear businesses.  “Without Shirley, most of what we did would have been impossible,” Jerry recalls sadly.  “Mom knew and loved everyone,” added Michael.  But, when asked about retiring, Jerry is adamant.  “Dad (Philip) retired at 72, quit working at 93.  I intend to do the same.”

Jerry’s leadership brought 2 enormous changes: Export-import; and the idea of producing a fashion item as a separate entity from uniform wear.  “My father stepped back about 30 years ago.  I stepped back about 10 years ago for Michael and Roy—if you want continuity, you have to do that.  They’ve been terrific about developing in these directions.”

Michael (son of Jerry) graduated Syracuse with degrees in philosophy and English.  At first a guitar player with a rock band, Michael was influenced to join Spiewak by Jerry’s “Try it, you’ll like it” philosophy.  He found his niche by changing the focus of the company from factory production to sales & marketing.  “People don’t care about how it’s made,” he tells.  “They care about how they look, how they feel.”

Michael has taken Spiewak into the marketplace.  “At any time, you can find us under our own label, and under private label, sometimes with as many as 5 different names in the same store.”  Bloomingdale’s & Saks now sell Spiewak fashion lines as confidently as policemen & security guards wear Spiewak uniforms.  “’Synergy’ is the best word to describe how we blend product, people, and jobs,” Michael says.  He handles sales, pricing & costing, product development.   “What makes us special is that we can design a different look for every area.  We have locations all over the world--Scandinavia, Montreal, Japan, South America…”

Michael is definite about loving work, being very fond of his colleagues.  “I especially love working with my dad.”  “Work?   I’d better love it, because it’s how I spend most of my day.  If I don’t enjoy it, I’m missing out on a whole part of my life.”

41 year-old Roy Spiewak (Marty’s son) is current president.  A graduate in economics from Cornell, he also has a Master’s degree in social work (focusing on policy development), and an MBA in finance & accounting--both from the University of Chicago.  Brilliant and diverse, thoughtful and unassuming, he considers himself “…not particularly creative, but a good communicator; I’m analytical when it comes to detecting and solving problems.”

Consulting work with accounting magnate Coopers & Lybrand; 10 years as a controller (first for an Israeli optical company, then an Israeli software manufacturer): Roy was adamant about making his own way before coming into the family business.  “I needed to know my own worth,” he recalls.  “Since I’ve come, the business has become more diversified.  We have agents all over the world who speak different languages, understand different cultures, but who represent our terms and philosophy.”

Roy travels to the Far East, supervises the Mississippi plant.  He is responsible for the financial and manufacturing ends of Spiewak, and concentrates on overall organization and modernization.  “Managing a business is about doing so many things yourself.  It’s more important to have consistency and stability rather than runaway growth.  The important thing is not to become a household name, but to survive and maintain our integrity.“  He volunteers, “I think what I like best is knowing I’m a link in a chain—my great-grandfather, my grandfather, my dad, me, and maybe my own children one day.”

Samuel Broome & Co, Inc.: Made to Measure

Ostensibly, the story of the Broome family is about neckwear.  It is about 3 generations of manufacturing and selling, beginning on New York’s Lower East Side in a small room that shook each time a train rattled overhead.  From sewers who carried their machine-heads on their backs as they trudged to work each day; from the small retail necktie business which served general and dry-goods stores during the Great Depression; the last 70 years have seen Broome become the world’s foremost manufacturer of uniform neckwear. 

With offices in Manhattan, connected by intranet to Florida and factories in Brooklyn & Mississippi, Broome & Co., Inc. has expanded into Canada, Australia and Britain, with converters in Italy and the U.S. who produce customized prints for major corporate identity.  Michael Broome, head of fabrication/sourcing/design states, “A uniform tie should say about a company what a “civilian” tie says about an individual.  It’s the one area in dress where a man has the opportunity to express himself, and where a company can do the same.  It should be unique without being overwhelming.  Remember, you have to wear the same look every single day.”

Sam Broome, like most immigrants descended from Europe, struggled to make a living for his family and himself.  He was a tough set-in-his-ways man who, with his wife, kept the smaller respectable tie business going.  Initially, neither of his sons, Sidney nor Marvin, had any interest in the business.  Marvin dreamed of archaeology until the Korean War intervened.  Afterwards, he came home with more “practical” goals, and with an eye for his dad’s secretary-bookkeeper, Marilyn.   In the military he had traveled, seen America as a mass-productive world power, and he saw possibilities for the uniform tie—something other than a dark blue clip-on for corner cops.

The elder Broome, at odds with his son’s broader thinking, maintained his place in production (Marvin handled sales) until 1965, when he died.  His prediction about Marvin’s notions: “Six months after I’m gone, you’ll be bankrupt…”

Like his father and mother before him, Marvin Broome spent many evenings at the kitchen table managing the future of the business with his wife, Marilyn.  Like his father, Marvin had children, none of whom intended to join the family business.  Michael: Hofstra to study business administration.  Daniel: First interested in the science of music, then to Syracuse for electrical engineering.  Baby-sister, Carolyn: Culinary Institute of America to become a chef/caterer.

Marilyn was more than bookkeeper.  For over 30 years, she was controller, advisor, the family conscience.  She assured the business a good name, good credit, and she enabled it to grow quickly.  “The integrity I have, my mother instilled,” says Mike.  “We’re a very unusual family,” injects Carolyn Broome Shulevitz.  “We’ve all been together and so close for so long.” 

Marvin’s assessment of the necktie in the uniform industry proved correct.  The military gave him contracts; business began to flourish.  One by one, 3^rd generation Broome’s began to return to the family enterprise full-time.  Michael, always involved with their converter—first as delivery boy in high school, later as part-time salesman during college—brought his own strengths to the company.  Marvin maintained high standards in production, while Michael added diversity with colors, printing, designs; the custom aspect of Samuel Broome.   

Danny left Syracuse, went to the Fashion Institute of Technology learning textile technology and computers.  “As soon as we came to the business, Dad would say, ‘Do you see anything that needs to be done?’” tells Danny.  “I suggested a new catalogue.  Dad said, ‘OK, now what are you going to do with it?  Sell.’”  Today, Danny Broome is head of marketing, manufacturing technology, and cyberspace.

Carolyn, tired of the on-demand catering business, had learned about efficient production, prompt delivery.  She was instrumental in separating diverse manufacturing techniques, and establishing Broome’s plant in Mississippi.  She also knows how to evaluate objectively.  “Whenever the boys lock horns,” she chuckles, “they call me to hammer it out.  They know I’ll tell them what I think without getting involved in personalities.” 

“Carolyn is the heart and focus of the business,” assesses Michael.  “Dad always says that if everyone agreed with each other there would be no need for more than 1 person in the company! It is Carolyn who keeps the family together.”  

 Danny reflects, “Family always comes first, but we’re so intertwined with the business, that what’s good for the business is good for the family.” 

Carolyn adds, “My father (68) has allowed his sons to run the business, while he is still very active in it.”  In spite of his 6^th sense of knowing by sound alone whether or not the factories are running smoothly, Marvin Broome disdains from commenting on any issue which belongs to the “territory” of his children.  “Better ask the boys,” he says, with a proud, deliberate smile.

 Broome has had some hard times with the changes in society towards more casual wear.  Each member of the family feels strongly that the pendulum is swinging back, however.  "Casual day doesn’t mean being a slob,” emphasizes Michael.  Still, it taught them a lesson, and Danny’s new catalogue reflects an even greater expansion of the term “neckwear:” That which is worn between waist and chin.  Turtlenecks, sweater-vests, web-belts, are some of the newest items in the Broome lines.

What Samuel Broome & Co., Inc. is really about is family.  Truly, the neckwear is the ties that bind.  They are an extraordinary clan, with as much regard for their customers and employees as for each other.   Earnestly opposed to outsourcing/contract labor, Michael states flatly, “Pay people what they are worth and keep quality where it can be properly controlled.” 

 Carolyn prefers to keep converters within U.S. borders for the sake of economy and jobs competition.  “The new market-place can be a very scary one,” she adds.  “We have many different people working here, and we think everyone feels like an equal.”  While Danny provides lists of names, mentioning invaluable employees (most notably Brigid Rumpf, Broome’s creative designer), Carolyn reminds, “No women in the workplace? Mother and I would never stand for it.” 

Marvin set the tone for the corporate philosophy:  “Confucius say ‘A picture worth 1,000 words.’  Broome say ‘A touch worth 1,000 pictures.’” 

 “Anyone can call anytime and speak to the Broome’s,” smiles, Danny.  “I’ve learned that knowing all your customers and doing all you can for them is what business is about.”